One way the people of Shanghai - famous for its seafood and soup dumplings - greet each other is by asking, "Have you eaten yet?"

CHUN

Don't be put off by the dreary facade. Do reserve well in advance for a chance at one of only four tables watched over by Minglan Qu, the carefree owner of this Shanghainese shoebox.

There is no menu; she simply tells you what the kitchen has made. With luck, the choices might include a salad of tofu and mushrooms, crunchy lake shrimp, and snails and pork chopped up, spiked with alcohol, stuffed into snail shells and served with toothpicks for extricating the "meatball" inside. US$10 each diner.

Location: 124 Jinxian Lu, Luwan District
Tel: 021-6256-0301

GUYI HUNAN

This big and busy dining room celebrates the cooking of Hunan: shredded chicken glistening with chile oil; short ribs in a casserole heaped with ginger, garlic and chopped red chiles; frogs' legs in a bamboo tube filled with a fiery broth.

Although the English translations beg for explanation (what exactly is "a jar full of sweet-smelling soup"?), the curious should observe what their Chinese neighbors are eating and follow suit. Dinner for two, about US$25.

Location: 89 Fumin Lu
Tel: 021-6249-5628

FU 1039

Patrons stroll down a small alley on their way to one of the most fashionable meals in the city.

Beautifully staged and expertly served in a rambling old mansion, the food is delicate and delicious. Ask for a sampling of the kitchen's signatures and out might come sweet and crisp smoked fish; hairy crab, strewn over braised asparagus; prawns draped in a sweet-hot chili sauce; and snowlike peanut ice cream. Dinner for two, about US$125.

Location: 1039 Yuyuan Road
Tel: 021-5237-1878)