Aged 22 and 23, nine intrepid young things got the idea in their heads that they could run a decent canba, or "snack bar," and so they went ahead and did it - with flair.

Their Hot Bean Cooperative has become one of Beijing's most popular eateries in recent months. Its walls are covered in whimsical hand-painted murals, such as the gigantic scarlet bulb with its undulating green vines and the cloned astronauts dismounting their space shuttle. Is this an expression of the inherent fallibility of human beings through a juxtaposition of romanticism and existentialism? Zhang Yuan, Hot Bean's spokesperson, says: "Oh, it's just for fun." And that, ladies and gentlemen, is the theme of the evening.

Yet they seem to be searching for more than just a simple diversion. "This is my favorite part of the whole place," Zhang says, gazing up at the big old tree in the middle of their courtyard. "This has been here for a long, long time." Opening this snack bar has given Zhang and his friends a means to bring young people to this otherwise forgotten corner of the city. They help breathe life back into the hutongs and make them relevant to society.

Friends since childhood, these nine youths are all hutong born and raised, and whether consciously or otherwise, they have permeated the eatery with nostalgia for their hutong childhoods. The bright murals go well with their music selection from cartoons they used to watch when they were kids, and the menu could please any Beijing 8 year old, with their Chinese-style Western food such as peppery mashed potatoes, sweet starchy pizzas or seaweed salad. They even have soft drinks in glass bottles.

But Hot Bean is most popular for its chicken wings. Beijingers are serious chicken wing connoisseurs, willing to go to great lengths to find that one wing stand that can give them their poultry fix. "Our customers like our chicken wings because they taste as good as Wu Ge's but we offer much better service and environment." Wu Ge is the notorious king of Beijing's chicken wing scene, infamous for his bad temper and somewhat untidy environment. Hot Bean marinate their wings overnight in a "secret sauce," then coat them in chilies before grilling over charcoal. tbj's favorite is the tomato flavored wing, which really is a sinofied barbecue sauce wing. Those out to prove their spice credentials though will want to try the "Perversely Spicy" wing. Thickly coated in Hot Bean's spice mix, these wings induce a burn in the mouth that slowly builds in strength. Those carelessly dismissing these wings' spiciness will regret it two minutes later.

Groups of friends chat animatedly and round after round of beers and soft drinks are passed out as they dare each other to try the obscenely spiced wings. Liu Xi, one of the owners, serves a plate of iced raw mangoes in syrup to help ease those flaming tastebuds. "Show us a trick!" requests one of the customers. Liu Xi is more than happy to oblige. Pulling out his pack of cards, his nimble fingers flash about, eliciting applause as he abracadabra's his way through his stock of magic tricks. Several diners half-jokingly ask to become his disciples. Zoe Li

Hot Bean Cooperative

Opening hours: Daily 5pm till last customer leaves.
Address: At the mouth of Chaodou Hutong, corner of Jiaodaokou Nandajie, Dongcheng District
Tel: 010-84016165

Recommended dishes:
Kaojichi chicken wings (RMB 3)
Kaoxia shrimp skewers (RMB 4)
Zizhi dougan pressed tofu (RMB 4)
Tudouni mashed potato (RMB 5)
Haidai shala seaweed salad
(RMB 4)
Bingzhen qingguo iced raw
mangoes (RMB 6)