It must be good to be David Laris these days. Having originally come to Shanghai to run the top floor of the culinary institution Three on the Bund, he literally soared to new heights after some good fortune gave him free reign in establishing his own set-up one level below.

The rest, as they often say, is history. The Greek-Australian runs one of the most well-received restaurants in the city; his menus are imaginatively designed and flawlessly executed. In addition, the tall, bald-pated chef will be opening the second outlet of his delicatessen chain, Slice, in Pudong's Jinqiao area on Monday (February 12).

Despite the accolades, Laris is not one to take his foot off the accelerator and rest on his laurels. He has an edge to him, a raw vibrant energy emanating from his person as he greets guests in his restaurant. And he still designs superb menus.

This month, the city's culinary icon is collaborating with Geofoods from Italy's Perugia region to present a special truffle menu with the tuber used in less-obvious ways.

Companies such as Geofoods are keen to promote truffles as luxury food items on the Chinese mainland. It is working with local partners to present the rare delicacy in a manner that will be well-received.

Part of the attraction of truffles is in its abstract quality. A truffle twice as large is not simply twice as dear; the larger fungus is prized more highly for its rarity rather than its form.

"There isn't a big (all-encompassing) truth about truffles," said Geofoods President Giuseppe Genuardi. "Historically, people saw them as a present from the gods. It's hard to define what the best quality is."

Undoubtedly, some people see immense value in the spontaneously-occurring underground fungus. One such connoisseur is Gordon Wu. In November, the Hong Kong tycoon paid about US$160,000 for a 1.5 kilogram white specimen from Alba, a world record.

Laris is also a genuine fan. While the fragrant garlicky aroma of the Umbria truffles lends itself to simply being shaved into a variety of dishes, the Sydney-native has taken a deep, hard look into the full impact of the tuber and added it in appropriate amounts.

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