Progressive menu no antiquity

By Gao Jian (Shanghai Daily)
Updated: 2007-02-09 09:30

It can often be tricky finding quality local fare the first time around. When faced with the choice of sweating it out in a dingy hole-in-the-wall or paying through the nose for food that is not quite on the mark, it is no wonder many visitors to the city go for the safer choices.

The newly-opened Home Gourmet, however, looks set to be the place to go for authentic quality Shanghainese fare in a setting that is worth waxing lyrical about. The Wuzhong Road restaurant is actually part of the also-new Sky Fortune All Suites Hotel Shanghai, but sees itself as a restaurant in a hotel rather than a hotel restaurant.

The 350-seater may not have the most imaginative moniker, but is worth visiting for its eclectic collection of old Shanghai memorabilia. Scores of people worldwide visit theme restaurants each year to have a peek at old guitars or signed t-shirts; these same people will likely be interested in having a look at blasts from the city's past.

A quick look around the 1,600-square-meter dining area should pique the interest of history buffs. Much is often said about the city's 1920s and 1930s heyday but very few have actually had the chance to see relics from yesteryear for themselves.

The closest most would get to a proper Shanghai scene would be on the silver screen.

Of course, Home Gourmet is more museum than diorama. Hanging on the walls are old title deeds, newspaper prints, movie posters, black and white photographs, security bonds and currency from around the globe.

Additionally, one can also find antique telephones, lamps, electric fans and other old home appliances, among others, all in pristine condition. Fascinating stuff yet again for the history buff.

Diners who just want to enjoy a meal, however, will not be let down either. If the restaurant had gone over the top with its collection of knick knacks, patrons may have felt like they were eating in a mausoleum. Home Gourmet is anything but.

The rooms are indeed stately, but grandly so. The emphasis is on enjoying a home-cooked meal in an environment a wealthy person would live in.

The main hall is large and spacious and makes good use of the curved structure to isolate certain sections of the same space.

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