Food street has something for all

(shanghai daily)
Updated: 2007-01-19 09:31

Every city needs a quality food street. Not the kind of mucky lanes that one has to wade through for steamed buns and stunted crayfish, but a proper avenue with plenty of choice to fill the stomach and enjoy a relaxing meal.

Dagu Road has been described as a "schizophrenic street," and this depiction is fitting. Approaching it from Shimen yi Road, one may be misled by the greengrocers and meat markets at the west end of the street, dismissing this as just another residential zone. However, there is no mistaking the looming opulence of the Top of City apartment complex and its myriad of high-end spas at street level. Once past the Internet cafe, which some might mistake for a discotheque, the type of commercial activity becomes decidedly upmarket.

The first stop for any gourmand should be Nova Restaurant and Bar. Worthy of a dedicated review (and it should command one in the upcoming weeks), the French bistro may not be scaling the culinary heights of the Bund, but still stands head and shoulders above other more prominent eateries.

This is a nice and cozy, medium-sized place with good, friendly service led by Manager Frank Krynen. Expect to find good value for lunch, with two courses costing 78 yuan (US$10) and three courses priced at 98 yuan.

Diners can pick from a menu featuring a shrimp and avocado cocktail (38 yuan), a tasty gourmande salad with caramelized bacon and few but adequate thin slices of duck breast (38 yuan), a hearty vegetable consomme (35 yuan), a distinctively grilled beef tenderloin in what is claimed to be mushroom sauce (98 yuan) and a satisfying salmon pasta in a cream and vodka sauce (60 yuan).

Across the road is Haya's Mediterranean Cuisine. While it may offer such sandwiches as an Israeli (omelet, tomato, cucumber, lettuce and olive for 30 yuan) or a Jerusalem Mix (grilled chicken, chicken hearts with onions and special spices for 43 yuan), this is unfortunately not the Jewish community's answer to the lack of local kosher restaurants. Main courses are a little unreasonable for the meager portions and lack of flavor, while the service completely undoes any good work done by the simple, pleasant environment.

A few doors away is the offshoot Mediterranean Bakery. The pastry on offer here is sublime. The large peach Danish with a good-sized portion of fruit (eight yuan) is one of the very best in the city, while the fluffy chocolate croissants did not taste like they came out of the freezer.

The store also has a huge selection of high-quality baked goods in the traditional Sabbath staple challah (named halla here, after the way it is pronounced - 20 yuan), olive bread (23 yuan) and German white rye bread (20 yuan), among others.

At No. 374 is La Boite a Pizza, a branch of the French franchise. Sadly, it no longer serves escargot pizza as there were admittedly not many willing to eat snails on cheese anyhow. It has expanded its repertoire, however, offering the ubiquitous Hawaiian-style chicken pineapple pizza (56 yuan for nine inches, 88 yuan for 11 inches). There is also a local twist in the Eight Treasures pizza made of chicken, ham, shrimp, onion, peas, corn, chili, tomato sauce and mozzarella (52 yuan/88 yuan). Another is the curiously named VIP Foie Gras pizza (88 yuan/118 yuan), presumably to make goose liver fans feel important. The parlor offers free home delivery and can be reached at 6340-0901.

If you are looking for a typical Australian cafe experience, then pop over to Cossies to chill out in the comfy seats and enjoy the wireless Internet. The owner of this establishment has a similar outlet in Sydney and the local incarnation brings a laid back Aussie approach with tasty pastas and value-for-money lunch specials (38 yuan).

Masala Art has been panned in this publication before and deservedly so. While not exactly the worst of the lot, the food here is painfully average.

If you missed the review the first time, the decor is upmarket, but the food is lacking in oil (good), spices (not so good) and for the most part, taste (abysmal).

For Jing'an District residents, Dagu Road presents plenty of options for inexpensive eats without venturing into uncharted territories. The options have been growing, and hopefully the rent on these places will not rocket sky-high overnight.

Nova Restaurant and Bar

Address: 418 Dagu Road
Tel: 6340-1889

Haya

Address: 415 Dagu Road
Tel: 021-6295-9511, 6327-0897

Mediterranean Bakery

Address: 401 Dagu Road

La Boite a Pizza

Address: 374 Dagu Road
Tel: 021-6340-0901

Cossies

Address: 403 Dagu Road
Tel: 021-5375-0600

Masala Art

Address: 397 Dagu Road
Tel: 021-6327-3571



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