At sky's edge
(That's beijing) Updated: 2007-01-15 10:13 Straddling the border with
North Korea, the Changbai Mountain Range remains locked in the icy grip of
winter for the greater part of the year, with the jewel in its crown, the
Heavenly Lake, frozen and hidden from the world at an altitude of 7,198 feet.
Lying in the deep crater of a dormant volcano, the lake is 3.1 miles from north
to south, 2.17 miles from east to west and eight miles in circumference, one
half in China, the other in the DPRK. Changbai Nature Reserve is the largest in
China and stretches across the border and up to the Amur Basin in the Russian
far East. While the park's more famous inhabitants - the crane, sable,
lynx, brown bear and Siberian tiger - remain elusive, it is possible to
catch glimpses of its smaller residents in a still relatively pristine setting.
Designated a UNESCO Man and Biosphere Reserve in 1979, more than 50 mammal
species and 300 bird species have been recorded in Changbai.

From autumn through to early spring the lake is frozen
over, and traces of snow cover the higher peaks and the shadowy recesses of the
forest floor well into the beginning of May. At the highest points, above 8,202
feet, the landscape is barren alpine tundra, the volcanic rock exposed to the
elements. In the high, jagged mountains surrounding the lake, an eerie quietness
reigns, broken only by gusts of wind whipping up puffs of snow from the craggy
peaks. The view from White Cloud Peak is breathtaking, the ice-covered lake
below seemingly transplanted from the heavens. It's an otherworldly sensation,
heightened by a terrain devoid of vegetation and strangely desolate. 6,561 feet
below, alpine forests flourish, with pine trees rooted in the rocky slopes and,
lower still, forests of white birch, dragon spruce, willow and broad-leaved
coniferous trees abound.
Erdaobai River runs from the lake, via a 223-foot
waterfall, and is the source of two of Jilin province's major waterways -
the Songhua and Tumen Rivers. On a cloudy day, the walk up to the waterfall is
still a pleasant trek, with the steam from the numerous hot springs billowing
around the cascading waters, parting briefly to reveal the ghost-like forms of a
group of Korean tourists picnicking on eggs boiled in the steaming and bubbling
waters. Further up the track rocks fall, cracking like pistol shots as the sound
echoes off the steep valley sides. Up ahead the waterfall cascades down,
disappearing beneath snow and ice. Passing the falls, the ascent up to the
lakeshore is steep. On the ridge, clouds blanket the landscape making the ground
indistinguishable from the sky, with only an occasional black rock peeking
through the snow. With cloud cover reducing visibility to a dozen or so yards,
an unwary traveler may find himself wandering out into the middle of a still
frozen lake - turn back immediately!
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