They aren't as old as the Mogao grottos of Dunhuang or as popular as Pingyao-but the diaolou of Kaiping in Guangdong Province are still a fascinating site to visit. The government of Kaiping has even applied for "UN World Cultural Heritage" status. Winter travelers will also enjoy the south's pleasant weather, green trees and blossoming flowerI traveled to Kaiping during the four-day 2006 New Year holiday. After a pleasant day in Guangzhou and an uneventful last evening of the year, my friends and I took an early bus to Kaiping on January 1. The trip took less than two hours.

Kaiping is so special because of its fortified, multi-story, gray edifices, called diaolou, which vaguely resemble medieval castles. The diaolou are classified according to their main functions: night watch towers, residential towers and communal towers. Today, 1,833 of the 3,000 diaolou built are still standing, although they remain in scattered states of conservation or neglect.

History

This region of Guangdong has always had a high rate of emigration. One major wave to Canada and the US started in the 1800s, as workers were needed for mining and railway construction. When the Chinese emigrants saved some wealth overseas, they returned home or sent money to their families to build a diaolou. The peak period of diaolou construction was in the 1920s and 30s. A few are more than 400 years old, and the newest dates 1948.

The styles of the diaolou vary greatly. As the emigrants went overseas, the styles of their new homes influenced the styles of their diaolou. They combine Greek, Roman, Gothic, Baroque, Muslim, Southeast Asian and traditional Chinese elements. The most recent diaolou were built with modern, imported materials such as steel and reinforced concrete. After the residents became affluent, their wealth attracted bandits and required new diaolou to be fortified.

In Kaiping, a detailed map with all the sights is available at the local Xinhua bookshop. As the places of interest are scattered, it's a good idea to rent a car for a day or two. Of course, the flat terrain makes it easy for travelers withenough time to explore by bike.

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