The sun has set on Frank Siegel's John Bull Pub, making way for managing "pardner" (cue whip-cracking sound) Tim Hilbert and his Texas Barbeque.

Tim envisions a meat-eater-friendly restaurant upstairs and a meathead-friendly sports bar downstairs. The place has been gussied up with authentic high-plains kitsch flown in from the Lonestar State, making you wonder: just how do you get a steer skull through customs?

The burgers (RMB 35) are done right and the huge Tsingtao pitchers (RMB 40) and margaritas (RMB 25) are hazardously cheap, but we found the beef brisket (RMB 65) was all hat and no cattle. Tim admits that bringing Texas to Beijing is no simple matter, but his determination to succeed is unwavering.

Though some may be inconsolable at the loss of the John Bull, a little brush clearing should see Tim's becoming as much of an icon as what it has replaced.

Tim's Texas Barbeque
Open time: 11am-midnight.
Location: 44 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District
Tel: 010-65325905