The Naked Cow is surprisingly well-dressed. And its stylish decor looks even more attractive in the flattering soft lighting. The patio out back boasts excellent feng shui, and comes complete with a babbling brook. The food, according to chef Erik Berger, is "modern American" with strong Mediterranean influences.

We sampled the hummus and bread (RMB 30) served with a delicious tomato and eggplant salsa (RMB 30), followed by pumpkin pizza (RMB 70), steamed clams (RMB 50), crab cakes (RMB 50) and baked mushroom (RMB 70). Although it seemed each dish was cooked with copious amounts of garlic, they were uniformly delicious and boasted a creative touch that was impressive. The wait staff is friendly and attentive; the service, prompt and efficient. Last but not least, the brownies (RMB 60) are not to be missed. Dining ¡°modern American¡± style may be a bit pricey, but as they say in the US of A, you get what you pay for.

The Naked Cow
Food: 4/ Service: 5/ Atmosphere: 5/ Cost for two (excluding drinks): RMB 300
Daily 5:30-11:30pm. All cards.
Address: No 2, Lane 66 Danshui Lu, by Jinling Xi Lu
Tel: 021-6437 3622, 6385 8123