Its setting on Xiangshan Road, one of the city's most picturesque streets, provides an inspiring locale, especially so in this moody winter weather. The area just beyond the boundaries of Fuxing Park feels almost like walking through a back street of London. While Xiangshan Road leads on to the nearly always-chaotic Huaihai Road, the area around Indalo is a picture of serenity.

The building which houses the restaurant is just across the road from the Sun Yat-sen Former Residence and Memorial Hall. A former residence itself, the outlet's entrance may be easy to miss but is warm and inviting once through the main door. A bar and booths for tapas leads into a larger dining area. The coziness exuded fits the surroundings marvelously.

The food is not half bad either. Spanish meals often revolve around tapas. These are small dishes of appetizers served together to form an entire meal. This encourages communal eating and offers diners a chance to sample a variety of different items.

"We once had a group of about six people come in and they tried to order all 40 items on the menu," said executive chef Albert Servalls I Bonilla. "I said 'hell no, that's too much."'

The Barcelona native has a long association with his chosen profession. His mother taught at the culinary academy where Servalls also attended in Manresa, a small town near the provincial capital, Catalonia. After graduation, he worked in some outstanding restaurants.

El Bulli, one of his early stops, is now perhaps one of the most famous restaurants in the world. The Michelin three-star establishment, which currently has a three-year waiting list, is always mentioned in the same breath as its famed chef Ferran Adria.

Along with his counterparts at The Fat Duck in the United Kingdom, Adria has been synonymous with the molecular gastronomy movement. This is the application of science to the art of cooking, and involves playing with physics and chemistry as much as with a wok and pan. The core team of 10 chefs at El Bulli spend six months in the lab and only operate the restaurant during the other half of the year.

This style of cooking did not appeal to Servalls, something understandable considering that only the core team is paid. Someone who has indelibly left a bigger influence on his career is Carmen Ruscalleda, the first female chef in Spain to be awarded three Michelin stars.

"She did things differently," said Servalls. "She would make us carry water from the sea in which to boil lobsters."

Servalls' menu here is also impressive. Standard tapas fare such as Iberico wild boar ham (110 yuan/US$14) is imported from Spain, as well as other items such as sheep cheese (75 yuan). The freshness and quality are apparent in the taste.

The 32-year-old also prepares a dish from his own personal repertoire - chipirones renellos (40 yuan). This take on an old classic consists of squid stuffed with pork meat and black onions. The onions are cooked in virgin olive oil for a week and the final dish is covered with a silky, shiny black ink sauce. The dish is a must-try as the combination of flavors and textures are complex and requires great skill to prepare.

The paella on offer is also up to snuff. Unbeknownst to most, the name refers not to the rice but actually the dish in which it is served. Indalo features the usual seafood paella, as well as the chicken variety.

Indalo also features an extensive wine list and serves 24 different types by the glass. Spain is more known for its reds and the restaurant offers many good drops to sample at affordable prices.

The restaurant is not likely to challenge chef Servalls previous kitchens for top accolades, but it is clear that this is something that was not contemplated. The food on offer is more homely and rustic, and the Spanish chef is more than capable of handling the menu on his own.

Indalo
Address: 4 Xiangshan Road
Tel: 021-53820738