"Without mirch or masala," says the owner Daya Shanker, "there is no [Indian] food." A native of Delhi, Shanker first opened Mirch Masala near Chaoyang Park's west gate, which closed during SARS, and later started the Raj chain, which he's since sold.

At the newly reopened Mirch Masala, we opted for a vegan dining experience which was even free of ghee, the clarified butter normally ubiquitous in Indian cuisine. We had baigan bharta (RMB 20), a spicy dish of mashed eggplant sure to please chili-enthusiasts, aloo saag mushroom (RMB 25), a mild variation of the spinach and potato standard, and bharwan simla mirch, tasty bell peppers stuffed with nine vegetables baked in the clay oven (RMB 20).

For those with meat and cream on the mind, pick from a wide range of dishes, including chicken specialties (RMB 30), lamb curries (RMB 35) and shrimp dishes from Bengal (starting at RMB 40).

Following the recent redevelopment of Nanluoguxiang, Shanker hopes Mirch Masala will be here to stay. "Now nothing can change," he says with a wink; "at least, not for a year or so."

Mirch Masala
Location: 60-2 Nanluoguxiang, Dongcheng District
Open time: 11am-2.30pm, 5-10.30pm.
Tel: 010-64064347