When the Flo group bought up Justine's, we thought we should take a moment to register this handover. Justine's was a milestone in the Beijing Western restaurants scene and one worries that it has now become just another chink in the monolithic Flo network.

As we have come to expect from Flo, the restaurant's decor is tasteful, low key, and oh-so-French-brasserie that it's just shy of contrived. But the well-trained, subtle service allows for a comfortable and sophisticated atmosphere.

Some of the prices on the menu raised a few eyebrows around the table-for example, RMB 95 for a Caesar salad. It's a bit like the five dollar shake: you know you've got to order it just to know what 95 kuai worth of lettuce tastes like. The salad was deftly assembled tableside and we tried to appear nonchalantly curious as we peered into the large wooden salad bowl searching for flecks of gold garnishing. Instead, we shared a down-to-earth, authentic Caesar, with no surprises. Crisp romaine leaves, crunchy croutons and bits of bacon all tossed in a sharp, savory dressing-too savory, the waiter was much too generous with the salt, but we enjoyed all the zest that belongs to a just-made salad.

Pan-seared Norwegian salmon with mushroom risotto was a generous slab of fish, if, unfortunately, a bit dry-okay, it was way overcooked, although the mushroom risotto had moisture to spare. It also had that remarkable texture of a risotto done right where the rice is unified into a thick, rich creaminess that nevertheless can be separated into individual al dente grains.

Honey roasted duck was presented beautifully, with each slice of duck arranged into a fan (even if it did make you wonder how much your cooked food was handled before it was served to you). The duck was picture perfect in its glistening mauve hues against taut bright asparagus, and although the meat came apart easily under the knife, it was not particularly exciting on the tongue. The sauce was aromatic and the vegetables very fresh, but the meat lacked the full taste of meat and was so fatty our pace began to lag after a couple of slices.

A wide range of classic French desserts were on offer, but after such heavy entrees, we opted for something cold and light. We took a gamble on profiteroles. It is surprising how bad profiteroles can be, considering they are like the peanut butter and jelly sandwich of French desserts-with indulgent ingredients and a simple procedure, it is difficult to err. Well, Flo's did not disappoint. These little puffs are worth every one of the 20 kuai they cost per piece. Velvet, flavorful vanilla ice-cream between light pastry that somehow manages to stay together when you cut it. A pot of thick chocolate is brought to the table for you to pour as much as you want over the little bundles. Tart berries provide the top notes.

Swirling the last of our wine around the bottom of our glasses, we poked fun at the out-of-date Europop clashing with the classy gilded surfaces, and sighed that, although the food is of a decent quality, as we've come to expect from the Flo chain, it also lacked a certain je ne sais quoi, which is also typical of a chain.

Flo Justine's
Location: 1/F Jianguo Hotel, 5 Jianguomenwai Dajie
Tel: 010-65002233 ext.8039