The concept of a brasserie-a laidback, neighborhood restaurant with hearty
food-is somewhat antithetical to Shanghai's high-gloss culture. As such, very
few have managed to get it right. Hugo Brasserie, however, does better than
Our meal was something of a decrescendo, beginning with excellent fresh bread
and a lovely set of shrimp croquettes and apple fennel salad with spicy mayo
(RMB 72). The crispy shell of the croquettes gave way to a rich savory filling,
nicely balanced by the freshness of the apple fennel salad. The grilled tuna
steak with sweet peas and red onion (RMB 118), though beautifully presented, was
a tad small and a wee bit dry. The tagliatelle with mushrooms, artichokes,
tomato, spring onion and basil (RMB 88), a cross between a rose sauce and a
stroganoff, seemed to be suffering an identity crisis.
The value and decor were at par, but the service, though fast and
professional, was characterized by a feeling of simmering resentment.
Location: No. 4, Lane 289 Weihai Lu,
by Chengdu Bei Lu
Cost for two (excluding drinks): RMB