Nanluoguxiang a hidden treasure in downtown Beijing

(btm.com)
Updated: 2006-11-09 10:28

Many foreigners have come to know Nanluoguxiang in the capital's Dongcheng District after patronizing the Pass By and Here bars. One of the best persevered areas in Downtown Beijing, Nanluoguxiang is famous for its hutong and courtyards (siheyuan) but it is also now famed for the cafes and bars and clothing and handcraft shops that line its hutong laneways. Dubbed "another bar area besides Houhai, Workers' Stadium and Sanlitun," Nanluoguxiang is a perfect blend of past and present.

                  
Nanluoguxiang has a 768-metre-long south-north central lane, with 16 hutong meandering east and west of off the central lane, giving each side eight hutong. This was the typical hutong layout of the Yuan Dynasty (1271¨C1368). With a history of more than 700 years, Nanluoguxiang is one of the capital's oldest hutong areas and has been one of Beijing's 25 cultural and historical protection areas since 1990. The southern end of Nanluoguxiang can be found at Di'anmen on Ping'an Dajie, with its northern end at Gulou Dongdajie (Drum Tower East Street).

If you begin walking from the Pass By Bar at the southern end, you will find more than 30 cafes and bars, clothing and handcraft shops along Nanluoguxiang¡¯s central lane. Unlike the streets of Houhai, bars and cafes at Nanluoguxiang are quieter, providing less-expensive food and drink. Most of them are decorated in a traditional Chinese style that matches well with their surroundings. Some make good use of the courtyards to create a comfortable and lively atmosphere.

Walk north of the Pass By Bar and you will encounter The Central Academy of Drama, the alma mater of countless Chinese TV and film stars such as Zhang Ziyi (Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon). Pedicabs are often found waiting outside its gates that serve visitors to the area. Posters of the First Beijing International University Students Drama Festival are still displayed around the academy. Some believe the tranquil hutong and the artistic drama academy determine the basic tone of the bars and shops there.

Several months ago, visitors might have encountered a narrow and dirty lane. Now, a wide, clean and tranquil lane lined by gray brick walls with bricks can be found because of renovations. Rooms that once occupied the central lane were dismantled, making the lane as much as 1 metre wider. The ancient courtyards are well-preserved, including those once used by families with a high social status. Special financial support has been provided by the local government to citizens allowing them to renovate their dwellings. The ancient doors and the stone steps at main gates have been preserved and renovated. The whole renovation project was accomplished between July and September.

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