Japanese fare cuts the wasabi

(shanghai daily)
Updated: 2006-10-20 09:37

As the Bund develops into the city's premier dining destination, the number of choices available to diners who puts a premium on quality is increasing proportionately.

The latest addition to the star-studded lineup is Sun with Aqua Japanese Dining and Bar in the newly-developed 6 Bund property.

The restaurant is run by Suntory F&B International (Shanghai), the local subsidiary of the giant Japanese conglomerate Suntory. Best known for its range of spirits and soft drinks, its restaurant arm has already commanded a steady following in cities from Hong Kong to Singapore. 

Sun with Aqua, which opened its doors to special guests a week ago, should prove to be a similar hit. Visitors to either the restaurant or the bar are likely to be impressed by the baby shark tank and overhead glass-bottomed pool that looms over the front desk - though environmentalists and the country's top basketball star will be pleased to know shark's fin is not on the menu.

Instead, the menu features typical, but expertly prepared, Japanese fare such as sashimi, sushi, tempura, tepanyaki and the house specialty, kamameshi (stockpot rice), among other delights.

Besides the usual sashimi selection such as maguro and sake (in this case, salmon), the beautifully-designed, neo-classical restaurant also offers less common cuts - at least in Shanghai - in uni (sea urchin) and hotate (scallop). These ingredients have to be extremely fresh for the full flavor to be properly enjoyed and those sampled cut the wasabi.

Wagyu beef tepanyaki is a must at any aspiring high-end tepanyaki joint, and Sun's chefs do not flounder.

Wagyu is a breed of cattle reared specifically to yield more tender fat. The cows are fed a special diet and are often more docile than other bovines. The beef, considered to be the best in the world, is noticeably marbled and graded on a scale of one to 10 according to the ratio of oil-rich, monounsaturated fats to saturated fats.

The best Wagyu beef comes from Kobe where production standards are considered to be strictest and the cows are said to be fed beer and sake.

The tempura came lightly battered and fluffy - a far cry from the soggy bits of fish and prawn that you often get in downtown chain restaurants. This is perhaps some of the best tempura outside of Japan.

The food does not come cheap though, which makes the 600 yuan (about US$76) Chef's Set most welcome. The price includes a number of courses, and patrons can expect dishes such as boiled king prawn, king crab tempura, shabu-shabu (sliced meat hotpot) and oyster congee with pickles, among others.

For dessert, the kuro goma (black sesame) pudding cannot be recommended enough. The sweet sticky pudding practically melted in the mouth and the sensation of sesame on the tongue was akin to cuddling under the covers. It would not be a surprise if visitors make their way to the Bund for this sweet treat alone.

The wine list was small, with a smattering of French and Australian labels available, but the real focus was on the 13 types of sake (Japanese rice wine), and a few types of shochu (a distilled alcoholic beverage commonly made from sweet potato).

The bar next door also concocted a few signature cocktails, which will be discussed in further detail in next week's Guestlist.

The launch of Sun with Aqua was highly anticipated, and judging on the results, is a worthy addition to the Bund dining scene.

Address: 2/F, 6 Zhongshan Road E1
Tel: 021-63392779