Yantai's well kept secret

(Shanghai Star)
Updated: 2006-10-11 11:39

The rooms in the battery contain a wonderful collection of artefacts that take you back to theold days and teach you a bitter lesson from the Sino-Japanese War in the mid-1890s.

Walking north along the No.1 bathing beach, the Changyu Wine Culture Museum is a mustsee.It rivals the dozens of wine museums I visited in Napa, California.The century-old cellar is a highlight. Gigantic oak barrels (15,000 litres) stand in the tunnel,still used by the Changyu Winery, the largest in China.

If I had had more time, I would have made an excursion to the Changyu vineyard in the near suburbs. It is grape harvest time between September and October.

Near the museum, I was amazed to discover an area with dozens of restored old houses. It was more impressive than Xintiandi,Shanghai's posh bar area with restored stone-framed buildings,not only because there are more old houses of varied styles,but also some narrow alleys that offer an ocean view. It was quiet now, with few visitors. In one or two years, it might become the most trendy place for locals and tourists.

Just a block away you will find more intriguing Western style buildings, many worn out. The Yantai Post Office, built in 1925 in classic French style, seems to be the best witness to the area's history.

I chose to have lunch in a seafood restaurant inside an old house, said to be the old German consulate. It provided relaxation,history and beautiful scenery dining at the window table across the street from the No.1 bathing beach. It was great to sample fresh seafood. But the local way of cooking seemed rustic. The abalone is boiled and served with the shell and everything else in it. Presentation is not considered.

But why care about food presentation when you have the best presentation of Mother Nature?

Walking from the restaurant towards Yantai Mountain, where terraces were erected in 1398 to signal danger when intruders approach, I saw plenty of people tidal pooling. Some worked attentively, gathering food for their dinner table. Some, the kids especially, seemed to be having great fun.


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