Shichahai, the city's lake district, resembles an oasis within the bustling
metropolis. Conveying a sense of space and light, it is an area where recent
environmental improvements have enhanced its natural charms.
A feeling of history also intermingles with local life. Its three man-made
lakes, Qianhai, Houhai and the lesser-known Xihai once formed part of a waterway
system feeding into the Imperial City. For centuries wooden boats brought
produce from the south via the Grand Canal.
That role has long passed. After a period of decline the lakes, whose banks
are lined with overhanging willow trees, are now a prime recreational
destination. With caf¨¦ bars found in many secluded corners it is also a
delightful area to relax over a drink while watching life on and off the water.
Opposite Beihai Park's North Gate at the head of Qianhai Lake is a recently
renovated square. This area, where rock sculptures mix with seasonal flowers, is
popular with locals exercising, flying kites, playing cards or having their hair
cut. Curios are on sale and boys wait to carry visitors by pedicabs around the
neighbouring hutong.
A paved trail leads round the eastern side of the lake past a dock for
motorised pleasure boats. Opposite, from the floating Romance Bar, wooden craft
provide dinner on the lakes to the accompaniment of traditional string
instruments. To the right behind some trees are some fine new restaurants while
offshore a small island with its round pavilion has been transformed into a
secluded bar.
Looking down on Qianhai, the magnificent Drum (Gulou) and Bell (Zhonglou)
Towers dating from the 15th century were timepieces of the Imperial City. The
far shore is lined with traditional grey-tiled low buildings £ former homes of
officials whose daily lives revolved around the bell chimes.
Ahead is elegant Wanning Bridge £ constructed of marble only two years ago it
spans a canal which once flowed to the south of the Old City. Much older stone
Houmen Bridge, where carved creatures 'guard' the waters, carries Dianmen Wai
Dajie, the northern part of the axis line running south through the Forbidden
City.
Adjacent, a temple formerly hidden behind unplanned buildings is being
restored. Soon the route turns northwest and after passing another boat dock
follows a narrow road. Several small restaurants crowd the street next to bars
such as No Name. Internally resembling an antique shop it offers great views of
the lake.
Behind is the sophisticated Nuage Vietnamese restaurant. New watering holes
also stand alongside the long-established Karouji duck and neighbouring Muslem
restaurants.
The artistically charming Silver Ingot Bridge spans a canal from Houhai Lake.
Earlier an area of great commercial activity, today pleasure boats pass
underneath. Clear weather offers superb views from here to the distant Fragrant
Hills. Formerly a quiet location frequented by artists, the neighbouring shores
are lined with bars that have made it a top spot for weekend relaxation.
Some small dumpling and noodle shops survive around the adjacent compact
square crowded with pedicabs. Leading eastwards from it is the Lane of the Long
Stem Pipe Makers, a street whose earlier canal-related commercial function has
also given way to more cafe bars.
