There's something surreal about seeing Bavarian-style buildings in the heart of a Chinese city. Grand German architecture juxtaposed by dumpling shops and kebab stalls, the Chinese national flagflying alongside an imposing Catholic church, teashops nestled next to brightly painted villas.

But then Qingdao is no ordinary city. Turned into a concession by the Germans in the late 19th century, the city itself retains a bizarrely European feel while its inhabitants give off a friendly sense of smug satisfaction. And it¡¯s little wonder as well as being home to the famous Tsingtao Brewery, their city has been chosen to hold the sailing events of the 2008 Summer Olympics. It is also the fourth largest port in China and boasts some of the best beaches in the north of the country.

The old town

The pungent smell of dried fish is as good an indicator as the German architecture that you have arrived in Qingdao's old town. Cod, haddock, red snapper, prawns and even sea horses and shark fin are sold, dried and vacuum-packed from dozens of stores along the main shoping streets. There is fresh fish as well, buckets of the stuff, laid out in front of the numerous small restaurants that fill the old town. Make your selection and watch guiltily as it is dispatched on the pavement with a quick thwack. The resulting dish will usually be well worth the spectacle.

St Michel's Catholic Church sits on top of the hill on which the old town is built, its spire a good reference point for those trying to naviate the town. The church itself would never win an award for architectural beauty, but it's worth a visit simply for the oddity of it all. There are also some good sea views to be had from the back of the church and thewalk from there down to the seafront, along quiet residential streets and past yellow painted villas, is a refreshingly relaxing experience for anyone escaping the hustle and bustle of Beijing.

The beaches

Qingdao has six beaches (imaginatively named Number One Beacg to Number Six Beach), stretching from the pier in the west to the Military Museum in the ea.st. Beaches Six and Five are the nearest to the old town and are therefore the most popular but also the most grubby. The sea along this stretch of the town resembles Chinese soup that is warm with unidentifiable bits floating in it. But the beaches do make good spots from which to people watch. On a blistering day we looked on as men in black trousers, shirts and smart shiny shoes sat awkwardly in the sand with their girlfriends and wives, who, in high heels and evening attire, sheltered under newspapers from the sun. The cleaner and quieter beaches are to the west and a good half an hour walk or 10-minute taxi drive from the old town. Here the crowds are thinner, interspersed by grinning newlyweds strutting their stuff along the waters edge as photographers take snaps for their wedding albums.

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