Pilgrimage to Putuo Mountain
By Namrita Chow (Shanghai Star)
Updated: 2006-09-07 14:21


Temperatures have been scorching here in Shanghai, and sitting in air-conditioning all day every day is not at all healthy. One alternative is to escape for a few days of cool breezes and the gentle ebb and flow of water along a sandy beach and the sounds of gongs, chants, and wildlife-in essence pure unadulterated indulgence to relax and re-vitalize for the last few weeks of summer heat.

Putuoshan Island lies in the Zhejiang Province, approximately 250 kilometres south of Shanghai. It is a relatively small island with an area of only 12.5 square kilometres. Its circumference is only 33 kilometres. But the abundance of hills and monasteries, beaches and forests provide several days of pleasant sightseeing.

According to legend, Guanyin, the Goddess of Mercy, resides on the island and it is her presence that makes it one of the sacred spots for Buddhist pilgrims.

Fanyin Cave at one of the furthest points of the island marks a small monastery where Guanyin is said to emerge from the waves beating against a long cliff-like cave.

Above the steep rocks is an almost hidden paved path through the forest, leading to a monastery and then another. It is almost impossible to get lost on the island as there are so many monasteries; one is more likely to find every path leads somewhere interesting.

There are various beaches on the island including one designated for swimming, with all the necessary modern facilities such as changing rooms, beach chairs, umbrellas and even towels for hire! Water sports include water-bikes with which one can zip into the depths of the sea. In the evenings the beach transforms into a party venue with a small bar and beach karaoke!

Local roadside restaurants are far more expensive than the air-conditioned restaurants opposite the posh four-star Putoshan Hotel. The restaurants near the hotel are a lot cleaner, though the cafes do offer thatSummer escape:pilgrimage to
Putuoshancertain je ne sais quoi of feeling like a real islander.

The main attraction of the island is the oldest temple which is high up on the top of Foding Mountain. Though a cable car provides a beautiful journey over tree tops, the hike up makes it a real monastic journey; a real feeling of pilgrimage. There are said to be a thousand steps from the base to Huiji Monastery on the top of Foding Mountain. One of the nicest ways is to start at the beautiful Fayu Monastery, and then follow the path.

Time your walk to reach the top at half past 10, when the monks at Huiji Temple open their kitchen to the public. It is a fantastic experience of clean vegetables grown on the island, and cooked simply yet absolutely delicious, and you can eat as much as you want for 5 yuan (US$0.6). However, the rule is that you cannot waste.

There are 13 mountains on the island and more than 20 pilgrim sites and places of interest.One is spoilt for choice. It has 3,000 to 4,000 inhabitants of whom about 1,000 are monks and nuns.