The Guge Kingdom in Ngari, Tibet, is discussed within archeological
circles in similarly reverential tones as the Mayan Civilization and Pompeii.
The three have in common that they were abruptly destroyed at their peak and
obscured from the world for centuries. Also that when excavated, all were found
to be in an uncannily well-preserved state.
There are a dozen or so households scattered around the ruins of the ancient
kingdom, none that have any connection with its original inhabitants. Exactly
how this kingdom of 100,000 inhabitants disappeared from view 350 years ago is
still a matter of debate.
The ruins of the Guge Kingdom are in western Tibet on an isolated plateau at
a latitude 4,000 meters above sea level. The remains of a formerly imposing
city, comprising 879 cave dwellings, 445 houses, 58 forts and 28 pagodas, stand
on a 300-meter-high hill beside the Xianquan River in Zanda County.
A narrow path from the city entrance leads upward to the Tara Hall, the White
and Red Temples and Daweide (Grand Dignity and Virtue) Hall. Murals in the White
Temple depict the family trees of the Tubo, Guke and Indian kings, and Red
Temple frescos reflect religious events and rites, most notably the joyful
meeting, celebrated with dancing to the accompaniment of drums and horns, of
Ngari King Yeshe Od and Indian Buddhist master Adisha in 1038. There are
well-preserved murals of the Buddha's guardian warriors, knights and gods of war
in the Daweide Hall. Despite the passing of several centuries, their colors are
still bright and lustrous, and the murals' detailed flowery decorations and
occult connotations of Esoteric Buddhism are reminiscent of Indian, Nepalese and
even Islamic art.
The path up the hill is intersected with many steep slopes that serve as
fortification. Armor, shields, broadswords, daggers and arrows have been
discovered in the hillside caves, all in good condition thanks to the dry
weather in the region.
The imperial compound comprising more than 40 mud and wood structures is at
the hill summit. Buildings are flat-roofed, and one, two and three storied with
an average area of 12 to 18 sq m. The palace is to the southeast of the site.
The remains of its largest building, a 200 sq m hall, are thought to be where
the king discussed state affairs with his officials. It has a mud and
cobblestone floor built on pounded sand a traditional Tibetan architectural
technique for floors and roofs that is still used in many Tibetan areas. Farther
north up the hilltop is a tunnel with a narrow entrance that gradually widens as
it winds downward for 20 meters. It leads to the uncompleted underground palace
of the Guge king.
The imperial castle is surrounded on all sides by precipitous cliffs that
make it inaccessible other than by a 50-meter twisting trail that starts halfway
up the hill. Reaching it is no easy task as low, overhanging rocks along the way
obscure the light and force the traveler to walk stooping, and the steep,
slippery stairs must be climbed with extreme care. It takes on average three
hours to cover the 300-meter distance to the hilltop.
Murder Mystery or Funerary Ritual?
The Guge Kingdom is much larger than the ruined city. It was founded 1,300
years ago by a member of the Tubo royal family, and was once the seat of rule
over the whole Tibetan plateau. At the height of its power, the kingdom's
territory covered all of Ngari Prefecture. It existed for over 700 years and
reigned over by more than kings before vanishing in the 17th century.
| 1 | 2 |  |
