(That's Shanghai)
Updated: 2006-08-22 10:42

When He Yan's playful collection Malanhua launched in September 2005, fashion watchers said 30-year-old He Yan was a designer to, well, watch. And with her third collection, Nue Xing, focusing mainly on menswear, the quirky Jiangxi native has indeed produced an eye-catching new range. "I chose the words 'Nue Xing' because it sounds beautiful to the ear," says He, adding that in Japanese, the phrase refers to 'Kabuki', or a male playing the role of female.

The Nue Xing fashion show was held in a renovated factory space on Yangshupu Lu, accompanied by instrumental music composed by the talented designer herself. With a distinct metrosexual bent, the men's collection features loud floral prints, asymmetrical cuts, long and short board shorts and body-hugging knits. For women, there were white silk slip dresses, tiny bloomers and bubble skirts.

One of the outstanding designs on offer was a white men's jacket emblazoned with a bold orange flower motif, paired with a simple olive cotton polo and low-slung shorts reaching beneath the knee. The latter comes in a range of fun patterns and looks especially good worn with a long-sleeve tee and canvas slippers.

He Yan says her collection was inspired by traditional Beijing opera costumes, meaning, we presume, the seamless cuts and strict attention to detail. White and black are dominant this season, and she generally works with cotton, and occasionally silk, chiffon and polyester.

"As a designer, I care about what others feel when they wear my clothes", says He Yan. "But it’s not just about looking beautiful, it’s about feeling comfortable as well."

He Yan is one of a small group of young designers who is developing the local fashion scene with a fresh approach and respect for work. Unlike some of her peers, however, He Yan has her eyes on international success. In the meantime, her collection is not available in retail channels (for shame), so before she becomes too famous for you to afford, visit her home in Shanghai where she’ll be happy to show you the goods.

Address: He Yan, Hua Shi Da Er Cun, Bldg 115, Caoyang Lu, by Jinshajiang Lu
Tel:13671967749
Website: www.heyan.org