The Slow Food Movement is an international culinary uprising that embraces organic, traditional, locally produced food while eschewing frenetic modern culture. Slow Food Studio may share the movement's anti-authoritarian attitude, but instead of fresh, carefully prepared plates, they offer only an array of drab, flavorless meat, fish and vegetable options (RMB 18-50) sauteed at your table. Even the accompanying fried rice (RMB 25) was dry, greasy and bland.

Still, we couldn't help but appreciate the driving punk soundtrack and the French and Japanese film posters, snapshot photos and scrawled slogans that decorate the studio. (One chalked motto-exhorting readers to "stay hungry"-may be inspirational on a billboard, but disconcerting when scrawled on a blackboard at a restaurant.)

While we picked over our plates, the sweetly eager staff hovered nearby, offering drink refills and condiments. The ambiance is artsy without being pretentious, and rebellious without being antagonistic.

In short, this is a great place to hang out, but make sure you've eaten first.

Slow Food Studio 
Location: 70 Nanchang Lu, by Fuxing Park
Opening time: Daily 5pm-12mn. No cards.
Cost for two (excluding drinks): RMB 150
Tel: 021-53860973