A documentary on open-heart surgery boomed from the TV at 131, a new Chongqing-style restaurant in Gubei.

Red plastic garlands dangled in the window; fake leaves snaked their way around a banister. It was Friday night and only two other tables were occupied. We weren't sure what to make of the place -- until the food arrived. 131's specialty is kaoyu (fried fish). You choose between four kinds of fish and five sauces (ranked by spiciness), and, of course, other Sichuan-style dishes. We opted for Chongqing-style fungus (£¤10), rape greens (£¤15), sijidou (£¤15), magege (£¤12), steamed rice and chicken), and perch in pepper sauce (£¤78), which, although marked by only one pepper on the menu, tested our tolerance for spiciness. To xia huo (reduce the fire) waitresses recommended the deliciously cold (and complimentary!) mint and green bean soup.

Although not outstanding, the food was good, and the service extremely friendly. Order a few beers, brace yourself for the spices, and you are sure to have a satisfying meal. Just avoid looking at the TV.

Perfect for: spicy palettes and strong stomachs
Address:131 Xingfu Lu
Tel:021-52540505