Nanjing, the literal meaning of the Southern
Capital, as opposed to Beijing, the Northern Capital. Boasting a prestigious
imperial past, serving as inspiration for many poets, the city of Nanjing is the
place where you can get really close to history. It sits on the lower reaches of
the Yangtze river, a strategic position of such importance that six ancient
dynasties had made Nanjing its capital. Today Nanjing is the sprawling capital
of Jiangsu province, with a population of over six million people.
Let's start of journey of Nanjing from one such old street, called
Yudaojie, or royal pathway.
During Ming Dynasty, before the emperor moved the capital north to Beijing,
Nanjing was the capital and the emperor built the city walls and imperial palace
here. All the important military, high court and other department lined along
Yudaojie street. Now we've just entered Wumen, which means the Meridian Gate.
The six-meter wide stone pavement was only reserved for the emperors and the
high-ranking officials. That means only the emperors could use that gate.
Entering Wumen, you leave behind the traffic of modern times and enter the
Imperial City of the Ming Dynasty. Inside the Gate of Wumen is another small
open-air museum where people keep a small garden-like space to display some of
the stone architectural elements.
Unfortunately the royal palace and the imperial city are long gone, but
much of the outer city wall still remains standing.
The wall was built along a natural river, which served as the moat for the
city. That side is outside the wall and over there is inside the city. Today the
city of Nanjing has grown out of the city walls, but isn't it nice to have such
ancient walls inside your city? What a treasure.
After over 600 years these stonewalls still stand here silently as valid
witnesses to the passing of time. The outer city wall is acclaimed as the
longest city wall in China. It stretches over 33 kilometers and most of its
parts still remain standing amid the city of Nanjing, though the face of the
city has long changed.
Today, with high rises and skyscrapers, the skyline of Nanjing has changed
much.
Just like any other city around the country, the old alleyways are
disappearing quickly. But if you look carefully, you can still find one or two
left. Along which, fine spots that give you a sense of how life used to be like
around here.
Ganjiadayuan, former residence of the Gan family is located in Yudaojie
street. . The huge compound wasn't built in one day, but was gradually expanded
over years through several generations. The most famous figure in the family is
a man named Gan Xi, a scholar of Qing Dynasty. The massive wooden decoration and
the scale of the residence telltales the affluence of the family.
The Gan family was particularly known for their artistic talent. By the end
of the Qing Dynasty, it's said each of the couple hundred of the family members
could play a musical instrument and one of their favorites was a local opera
called Kunqu.
Kunqu is one of the finest and oldest forms of local operas in China. Somehow
the slow melody just matches the old houses and rooms, which are full of untold
memories and stories.
For a taste of the local flavors, one recommendation is the Shiziqiao
Street, in conjunction of Hunanlu Street. It is my policy to try the most
indigenous local food wherever I go. For that reason, the Nanjing Dapaidang
restaurant is one good choice. Its deliberate antique decorations as well as the
furniture indicate a clear vow to provide a flavor that is one hundred percent
local.
There are so many choices, but I can only recommend a few here we are. This
is Shizitou, very easy to remember, the head of a lion. This one is the root of
the lotus. This one is Luhao, vegetable only available in this part of China and
the last one, this one I've never heard of, it's called Tang Yumiao, sweet
little taros.