Two suits of armour stand guard at the entrance to The Cellar, setting the medieval theme for a wine bar that claims to have the best selection of reds and whites in Beijing.

Sitting at the toes of the newly-opened Trio building below the more in-your-face Frank's Place, it has an amusing air of haughty superiority.

Heavy, wrought iron chandeliers with candles hang from the arched ceiling, racks of wine line the walls and single red roses decorate every table.

Temperature controlled cabinets are built into the wall on the left, the names of the wine lovers who have hired them to house their collections proudly displayed on polished bronze plaques.

Serious drinkers are expected to indulge at one of the rather informal looking tables that run the length of the bar but there is a separate seating area for those who prefer to kick back with their Shiraz or Chardonnay. Unfortunately its all high backed black leather chairs and red velvet cushions are a rather incongruous addition that would be better suited to a cheap gentlemen's club than a venue that is aiming for a touch of sophistication.

But dcor and atmosphere were always going to come second for a bar that prides itself on being the city's new wine pioneer. And their vast selection of reds and whites from France, Spain, Italy and the New World, must surely put them in the running for that title. With bottles ranging in price from around 600 yuan (US$75) to 25,200 yuan (US$3,150) for a bottle of Petrus Pomerol 1988, even the pickiest of punters are spoilt for choice. There is also a good selection of cocktails at 50 yuan (US$6.25) a pop, bottled beers for between 30 yuan (US$3.75) and 45 yuan (US$5.6) and an impressive choice of spirits.

The pseudo-medieval dcor and slightly sterile atmosphere does not make this the most alluring bar in town but if you are serious about your plonk and have a bit of cash to splash, The Cellar will not disappoint.

The Cellar
Location: B1, Trio, Jiangtai Xilu, west of Rosedale Hotel, Lido area, Chaoyang District
Tel: 010-64378399