It would be impossible to review Mediterraneo without mentioning its fine, spacious garden, but to dwell on appearances would be a disservice to the truly impressive cuisine.

The lengthy menu starts with a series of appetizers, salads and soups, including a bowl of corn and pumpkin cream soup (RMB 67) that neatly balances spicy and sweet.

Signature entrees are substantial, serious dishes in classic combinations, including duck with roast peaches and orange sauce (RMB 268) and venison with cherries and cognac (RMB 294). If a generous portion of venison sounds too heavy, try the pizza diavolo (RMB 78), topped with salami and finished with a spicy arrabiata kick; or gnocci with duckling ragout (RMB 85), an extraordinarily delicate and flavourful dish.

Finish with one of several timeless desserts, including semifreddo with Grand Marnier (RMB 76) and a crepe topped with mascarpone and Cognac-drenched berries (RMB 94).

Whatever you choose, expect a meal that's about more than just appearances.

Mediterraneo
Location: No. 1317 Wuding Xi Lu, by Jiangsu Lu
Opening time: Daily 11am-2am. All cards.
Cost for two (excluding drinks): RMB 600 
Tel: 021-52389633 ext.8000