'SKY' the sign says. Nice logo, like the vodka, almost. It's appropriately high enough, on the twenty-first floor of a tall "CAT" building by the Dashanze Roundabout.

I hope for comfort and elegance in the wings. Alas, I am left short. The decor is a bizarre mix of Arabic curtain-box arches, Malay-type curtains, all contrasting the usual Chinese design signatures everywhere else, leaving me uncertain as to what to expect.

The food, however, is not bad. The 'angus' steak (RMB 148) comes medium-rare as requested with crisp golden-brown fries, the lasagne (RMB 48) is laden with meat and spicy oregano, and the pizza (RMB 78) is choc-full of toppings with masses of real mozzarella. The wine list is limited, but the Henessey, in all its splendor makes an appearance.

Sky
Location: 21F-C, Star City, Jia No.10 Jiuxian Qiao
Tel: 010-58279188/9198
Perfect for: those in the area