CITYLIFE / Bars & Cafes

Local bar for local people
By Chris O'Brien (Beijing Weekend)
Updated: 2006-07-06 11:22

A reliable listings magazine caught my attention with talk of a friendly hangout called Pub Quartier, a French Canadian joint down the eastern depths of subway line 1 in Sihui Dong (East). Leaving the station (via Exit B) was like gatecrashing a street party of the Australian soap Neighbours with some drab-looking high-rise apartments thrown in. Three generations of residents were tearing up the kids' playground with enthusiasm usually reserved for Disneyland.

I arrived at the address to find only one English/French sounding name Bar and Coffee. This can't be it. I showed the barman the address and sat me down with a pint of draught for 10 yuan (US$1.25). Apparently the foreign owners left in spring and the bar is now called Yuan Yang Cha or as first suspected "Bar and Coffee."

Early evening is a quiet time that suits this sleepy, simple place. Towards the rear of the bar, where natural light floods in, is a wicker-chaired seating area. The view is of the main road but there is something relaxing about the whoosh of some of the capital's 2.6 million vehicles. Whisky is a major theme; with two empty casks sitting in the middle of the room providing a balancing base for a giant bottle of 12-year-old Grants. A dram will only set you back 20 yuan (US$2.5). The bar is not short of quirks either some old school black street lanterns are taken from a mock Victorian pub and one shelf is lined with jars of herbs, spices and strange potions.

Unfortunately the dreaded green plastic plant craze has even infiltrated this secluded neighbourhood.

This bar is the place to feel at home chatting with residents from the surrounding apartment blocks. The World Cup is nearly over but apparently the men gather around the bar's two TVs to watch whatever football match is going, leaving their zuqiu guafu (football widows) indoors.

Coffee is around the 20-yuan/US$2.5 mark and a good selection of teas range from 25 to 50 yuan (US$3.13-6.25). The food selection is basic, with pasta for 20 yuan (US$2.5) and noodles for 15 yuan (US$1.88), but then you aren't here for the culinary experience.

Yuan Yang Cha (Bar and Coffee)
Location: Huiminyuan Building 1, No.7, Tonghui Jiayuan apartment block, Sihui Dong subway (exit B), Chaoyang District
Opening time: 10 am-2 am