Papaya salad

Jatujak's menu offers standard Thai favorites prepared without sticky sweetness.

Spring rolls (RMB 28) were a pleasant variant on an old standby, flaky instead of greasy. The papaya salad (RMB 38) was crisp and cool, with hints of lime and vinegar-and of course, a generous helping of chilies. We also enjoyed a profusion of fresh shellfish in a delicate red curry sauce (RMB 58). Even the fresh mango with sticky rice (RMB 28) was restrained and almost savory.

Still, we were distracted from the food by the boisterous floor show (complete with fog machine). But whatever the dancers lack in polish they make up for in buoyant confidence-by the end of the night, most of the restaurant was dancing along with them.

Location: 4/F, Xinmei Union Square, No.999 Pudong Nanlu, by Shangchenglu
Opening time: Daily 10:00am-10:00pm. All cards.
Cost for two (excluding drinks): RMB 24
Tel: 021-51341186