CITYLIFE / Travel

Scenes worth gasping for
By Xu Xiaomin (Shanghai Star )
Updated: 2006-06-01 17:01

After the cable car arrived, halfway up the mountain we decided to head to Xihaian (West Beach). The experience there confirmed the site as one of the best mountainous areas I have ever seen.

Strange rocks added surprises to the tiring climb. Local people have given these strange rocks imaginative and beautiful names. For example, a rock which looks like an ape is called "monkey enjoying the ocean," a huge rock which looks like a woman holding an infant is called "Kwanyin delivering a baby" (Kwanyin is a goddess believed to send children to couples having reproductive difficulties).

The most exciting part of the hike was the kong zhong zhan dao (a plank road built along the cliff). The length of the plank road at Xihaian is about 3 kilometres. It is the longest of its type in the country, despite being built at a height of 1,600 metres. It is said the local government only took five months to build this miracle, without one injury being suffered.

Some sections of the plank road are only half metre in width. It is necessary to bend repeatedly to avoid striking one's head on the many ancient trees overhanging the path.

Walking on the path, which curves like a belt around the mountain, is a fun way to enjoy the different sides of the mountain. Sometimes, walking in the sunshine, every rock and tree looks happy and flourishing. But then you pass into the shade and the huge rocks and plants suddenly seem gloomy, as if in a scene from "A Journey to the West," with monsters ready to jump out from caves.

May and June are the best times to visit the mountain because the rhododendron are in bloom. We arrived at the mountain in early May, when most of the rhododendron trees only had green leaves. But upon turning around on the plank road on one occasion, I suddenly noticed a big rhododendron tree with countless pink flowers standing in the fresh air in front of me. The blossoming tree stood alone on the quiet mountain. I wondered if it felt sad that few people could enjoy its beauty in this isolated place.

We followed the plank road towards Donghaian (East Beach). Compared with Xihaian, Donghaian was not especially exciting. But to a tired traveller, the smoother path was a comfort, particularly because it descended towards the cable car station.

One day is not enough to see much of Sanqing Mountain, which has many peaks and several scenic spots. At the level of the cable car station there are some hotels, but reserving in advance is advisable.

After a good night's sleep one can climb Yujing Peak, which - at 1,816 metres - is the highest of the mountain.

It is better to enjoy the view after rain, when mist around the peak adds more charm. It is said the view then looks like a water ink painting. Few visitors are that lucky. Our day was dry, with everything exposed in the strong sunshine.

It is still worthwhile to reach the Yujing Peak, where you can look down from the highest point of the mountain and bathe in the chilly air. I felt like a great heroine.

How to get there: If driving yourself, start along the highway from Shanghai to Hangzhou, then turn onto the Hangzhou-Quzhou highway to Quzhou, then turn to Liwen highway and take the Yushan exit.

If you take public transportation, there are trains from Shanghai to Yushan, but all arrive at midnight. Alternatively, you can take a long distance bus to either Yushan or Shangrao county where Sanqing Mountain is located, then take a local bus to the mountain.

Accommodation: There are several hotels on the mountain such as the Yunzhongyuan and Rishang hotels, priced at about 500 yuan (US$60) for a standard room. In the low season they offer preferential prices. The rooms are clean.


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