CITYLIFE / Eating Out

Spice with a view
(Shanghai Star)
Updated: 2006-05-26 10:53

What drew me to the Southeast Asian restaurant in Pudong was the fried crabs in curry sauce, which was offered there at a spectacularly low price.

Up to now, I have never regretted such impulsive consumption decisions, even when they have obviously been based on tempting promotions.

With a new and comfortable atmosphere, and a spectacular view of the Huangpu River, Xianghe is a place where diners can enjoy authentic Southeast Asian cuisine, especially Thai dishes, served by friendly wait staff.

The restaurant, located in the Super Brand Mall, has a capacious dining room inside with a long wooden pavilion in the centre and several palm trees by the entrance. The seating next to the windows offered a good scenic view of the Oriental Pearl Tower, the Bund, the floating lights on the Huangpu River and the busy traffic flow in Lujiazui. Diners can easily get window seats in Xianghe with a reservation.

Some of the food served there was as pleasant as the environment. The fried curried crabs which I mentioned above were a visually attractive delicacy and also the signature dish of the restaurant. The regular price is 139 yuan (US$17) but throughout March, the dish is just one yuan (US$0.12) for one serving at any table where the check exceeds 60 yuan (US$7) per person.

The crab meat tasted especially fresh and tender, with a savoury curry sauce that was a bit oily. Diners are advised to mix the curry sauce with the Thai rice, which is said to be a traditional way of eating the dish.

The cold spicy and sour Thai chicken claws (29 yuan, US$4) were served in a way quite different from the Chinese style, shedded from the bones (with the gristle remaining with the skin) and covered by carrot slices, chilies and celery. The flavour was refreshingly spicy and sour just as its name indicated, numbing the tongue for a few seconds.

The roasted pork neck was a dish with traditional Thai characteristics and was also my favourite dish in Xianghe. The pork skin was roasted to a golden crispness, while the meat was tender and delicious but a little fatty. The taste of the roasted pork was not too spicy but somewhat sweet, similar to the flavour of barbecued pork.

Xianghe serves a selection of roasted meat, including chicken, beef and pork.

Some dishes served in Xianghe came in relatively small portions, although the flavour was not bad. The steamed fish soup with green peppers (49 yuan, US$6) was fresh, spicy and delectable but it contained little fish -- mostly diced mushroom, bamboo slices and onions. The pineapple stuffed with fried rice and seafood (39 yuan, US$5) was visually appealing but the portion was small and the rice, which appeared splendidly yellow, failed to absorb the flavour of the seafood or the pineapple.

For me -- and for my dinner companions -- what was even more impressive than the food served in Xianghe was its restrooms. The women's was not large but was well decorated. The men's and women's both had glass exterior walls.

The average cost for each person in Xianghe is usually above 90 yuan (US$11), but special prices are available this month.

Xianghe Restaurant
Location: 8F Super Brand Mall, West 168 Lujiazui Road
Tel: 021-50471397