According to local custom, the color red brings luck and happiness, while gold symbolizes wealth. This is probably why at Red Wall, the outside is painted a garish red, while the interior decor is conspicuous for its ostentatious use of gold.

In short, this restaurant tries hard to impress, but fails. That is unless you happen to be a member of the growing class of nouveau riche. If so, then this is the place to wear your designer clothing and show off to your peers. At least on one level.

Unfortunately, the dishes sound grand, but are just bland. There was something fishy about the smoked Norwegian salmon on rye (RMB 55), while our tasteless fish eggs were in fact capers in disguise. The mushroom and pea risotto (RMB 59) resembled a Shanghainese breakfast of pao fan: leftover rice with water. We won't even get into the mock-Mexican tortilla (RMB 49).

With its low-end food and slow-moving service, Red Wall is all about surface, under which there's nothing much at all.

Opening time: Daily 11am-10pm. All cards.
Location: No.628, Yongjialu, by Wulumuqi Nanlu, Shanghai 
Cost for two (excluding drinks): RMB 120
Tel: 021-54681177