The connection between life and language has long endured, according to a conceit of philosophers and writers. In Anyang, these souls and those who are just plain curious can find some of the world's most ancient evidence of language - the unearthed Yin dynasty oracle bones.

Oracle bone script is the oldest known form of Chinese written language. According to recent archeological research, it dates back as far as 4,800 years and was carved on tortoise shells and ox scapulas. In English literature, it is commonly called "oracle bone script", as some of the objects are thought to be used as oracles.

This month, the tale of China's oracle bones will be widely distributed to the masses in the form of Peter Hessler's new offering, Oracle Bones. Well known for his first book, River Town, which documented his first years in China with the Peace Corp, Hessler frames his second narrative around short chapters about Chinese artifacts, including the underground city being excavated at Anyang and the oracle bones of the title.

For those who are truly interested in the history of the Chinese language, you can do one better than just read about the oracle bones - travel to its birthplace, Anyang.

Bones and Chariots

In 1300 B.C., the 20th king of the Shang dynasty relocated the capital to the area around Anyang and remained there for two and a half centuries. The Shang developed villages, installed irrigation and draining pipes, created fine artistic works, traded and bartered with other nations, husbanded animals and formed political and ritualistic institutions. They also created the Chinese language. Of the three ancient writing systems, only that of the oracle bones has developed into a form still used today.

The Anyang Yinxu Site Garden clarifies the language's evolution by exhibiting oracle bones and displays equipped with English translations to assist those unfamiliar with Chinese characters.
At the outside exhibition, a father asks his young daughter: "What's this?" as he points to a figure with a square base and three pointy tops.

"Mountain."

"What's this?" he again asks as he points to what looks like an E facing downward with three dashes coming from each horizontal line.

"Rain."

They pass by a pictograph of a woman kneeling holding a baby boy. This character means "good". There is no such character involving daughters.

The tomb of Lady Fu Hao (c BC 1200), a Chinese daughter who lived long before Disney darling Mulan kicked ass and took heads, is a testament to her privileged status under King Wu Ding. Together they guided the Shang dynasty to its zenith of military power.
In addition to tombs and ancient writings, the oldest chariots discovered in China to date are on display; they are also the largest. Archaeologists have dubbed them the "S.U.V. of chariots".

The Ding

Within the onsite museum, rests China's largest bronze ding, or cooking vessel, discovered to date. The ding, which weighs 825 kilograms, stands 133 centimeters tall and boasts a width of 111 centimeters, was a burial gift from King Wu Ding to his mother.

This impressive object possesses an equally interesting modern-day history. In the heart of Anyang, a display of storyboards for a television show stands outside a busy shopping area. The storyboards, like many mainland television programs, detail the atrocities suffered during the Japanese occupation. A huge red banner reads, "Thank you Comrade Si". Underneath stands a photograph of an old man, his wrinkled hands resting on the museum's ding.

Here I meet a man who introduces himself as Mr. Liu and I follow him to the Si Muwu Ding Shop, which sells bronze replicas of everything displayed in the museum. In Mandarin, Mr. Liu tells Si Muwu's story.

When Si was a country kid of 18, he heard that the Japanese soldiers were coming for the recently discovered ding. One night, he recruited a team of villagers to help him bury it in the earth. In the years that followed, he would have to hide it from the soldiers two more times before it was finally transported to Nanjing for safekeeping.

Later, for his efforts to preserve Chinese artifacts, he was rewarded by visits from high-level government officials. His son opened the store and named after his father, to provide people with a chance to cherish the craftsmanship of Chinese goods. Recently, CCTV made a docudrama about Si's life and bravery, which in turn led to the creation of the public banner.

"That, and he's getting old," Liu says without offering any unnecessary explanations.