The main building was erected in the early 20th century. It used to belong to a senior government official and once was the venue for a Shanghai beauty contest.

Diners can enter the building by climbing wooden stairs hidden on its left side. It contains eight private rooms, all of which are large, bright and decorated in a classic and exquisite style. Each private room is tagged with a small portrait of a Nobel Peace Prize winner on the door, which is why the restaurant is now called the "Peace Mansion."

The hallways inside the building are fitted with traditional furniture made of redwood and some antique china and lacquerware. Every private room has a balcony, which provides a good view of the garden.

I preferred to eat in the recently built glass structures. The cost is lower than in a private room and the surrounding glass brings the garden scenery closer. During my recent evening visit to the restaurant, the plants in the garden were decorated with green lights and the yellow lights created a fascinating atmosphere inside the glass.

The food served in the Peace Mansion is mostly prepared in the Shanghainese style, less spicy than Sichuan or Hunnan cuisine but still well seasoned. The restaurant also boasts a range of "undisclosed home cuisine" created by its chefs.

The steamed goose liver with Chivas Regal (178 yuan, US$22) was an impressive creation. The liver had been chopped into pieces and tasted very delicate, tender and not at all bitter, unlike others I have tried.

The dish was served on tableware which somewhat resembled a teaset. The liver slices were served on a plate placed on a teaboard, with a few small cups of soup arranged around it. The soup was made with Chivas Regal and goose liver stew.

It is recommended that the soup be consumed before the liver as the soup helps to cleanse the palate of flavours left by other dishes.

The braised fish balls (45 yuan, US$6) was another original and signature dish of the restaurant. The fish balls had been wrapped in a "pastry" also made from fish, then served with other vegetables. They tasted quite good and much more compact than usual.

The steamed Chinese watermelon with scallops and ham was also worthy of recommendation. Unlike the common Chinese culinary method -- mixing all the ingredients together in a soup -- the Peace Mansion has adopted a distinctive
manner of preparation. A large chunk of Chinese watermelon was topped with scallops and ham and drenched in sauce. The dish tasted refreshing and savoury and the watermelon was especially tender, immediately melting in mouth.

The undisclosed home menu of the Peace Mansion includes a dish with the poetic Chinese name "An Xiang," which literally means "the concealing fragrance" (35 yuan, US$4). It has already become an unmissable dish for diners at the restaurant. The dish seemed quite simple on its surface, made of steamed eggs, beans and ham. But inside it contained stinky tofu, a popular Shanghai dim sum known as "chou dou fu" -- famous for its unpleasant odor but appetizing taste. The steamed egg and bean curd were integrated in complete harmony, with a particularly delectable flavour.

My dining companion and I also enjoyed the cold dishes served in the Peace Mansion. All these delicacies were presented on lovely blue-and-white porcelain plates.

The average cost in the glass rooms is about 120-150 yuan (US$15-18) per person while the cost is about 200-300 yuan (US$25-37) for individuals in the private rooms. Diners should make a reservation two or three days in advance.

Peace Mansion
158 Fenyang Road
Tel: 6437-5192