Vegetables from the allium family are integral constituents in hearty dishes the world over, but they are usually used as a base to carry other elements rather than an ingredient in their own right. Members include onion (yang cong), garlic (da suan), spring onion or scallion (xiao cong), leek (da cong), Chinese leek (jiu cai) and chives. At the beginning of November this year, the Second Expert Report: Food, Nutrition & Physical Activity and Cancer Prevention: A Global Perspective was published by the World Cancer Research Fund. This thorough analysis examined large studies of dietary components in relation to different types of cancer. Amongst its findings, it showed that increased intakes of allium vegetables were linked to lower rates of stomach cancer. This may be due to the anti-cancer compounds contained in these flavorsome vegetables, such as flavonols and organosulphides. Garlic is also known to have antibiotic properties which may help prevent infection of the stomach by heliobacterium pylori which often precedes stomach ulcers and stomach cancer. Garlic was also correlated with lower incidence of colon cancer, with the allylsulphide compounds they contain being able to stop colon tumour growth.

Allium vegetables store their energy in the form of inulin (chains of fructose) as opposed to starch (chains of glucose). The body cannot digest inulin, but in fact this is an advantage as it provides a feast of material for the friendly bacteria in your gut. The downside is this can result in a fair bit of flatulence and gas for some people as a byproduct from the bacteria. The soluble fibers in these vegetables are also advantageous for your cholesterol so you have plenty of excuses for a smelly indiscretion.

Allium vegetables are certainly used in abundance in China. At this time of year, huge bundles of leeks are seen winging their way home strapped to bicycles. These are subsequently spread over porches and rooftops to dry in the cold autumn air and then used throughout winter. Leeks, onions and garlic are used almost interchangeably as the basis of most Chinese dishes; you'll struggle to find one without. Leeks are notable as baozi and jiaozi fillings, alongside pork or shrimp. More unique to China are Chinese leeks (jiu cai) - these have a very strong garlic flavor, which I find a little overpowering. These are often used to fill rectangular shaped bing pastries sold from local bakeries, and are also used in jiu cai he zi - a large flat savory pancake served in wedges with the central filling of Chinese leek. Spring onions, tend to be used as more of a garnish - sprinkled into soups, or on top of tofu as in xiao cong ban doufu.

In international cuisine this onion family is also used extensively - curries, casseroles, tagines, soups and breads. To boost your intake, try to cook up dishes where they feature as the main ingredient. You could whip up a Gallic soupy starter of French onion soup or Vichyssoise (a cold combination of potato and leeks). Moving onto Scotland, but staying with soup you could try the infamous Cock-o-Leeky, a warming combination of chicken and leek. Onions are superb in quiche, on their own or combined with a little goat's cheese and thyme. Cheese and onion crisps were always my least favorite but I would highly recommend a bowl of gooey caramelized onions alongside a cheese platter. Of course, spring onions in large amounts are vital for a good potato salad. Just don't forget your chewing gum.

This nutrition-related column is written by Nina Lenton, a qualified dietitian living in Beijing and working at Bayley and Jackson Medical Center. Contact her at nina.lenton@ikang.com