In a quiet lane in the heart of the capital, an ancient courtyard guards a stately past dating to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911). The Bamboo Garden, converted to a hotel in 1981, allows guests to recline in elegant surrounds and imagine the life of the courtyard's former imperial residents.

Not far away in another old hutong, young foreign travelers experience a world removed from the bright lights of the new city. The Temple Side House Hostel is in a traditional lane, where hawkers call out to accost customers, old folks stroll about, and bicycles and tricycles file through the narrow passage.

Both are located in Beijing's Xicheng District, and examples of courtyard accommodation that offer visitors a unique way to spend their stay. Hotels located in the ancient maze of hutong provide a charming glimpse into traditional ways of life, coupled with modern amenities. They are gaining ground among tourists and business travelers after a change from the bland rooms offered in high-density CBD hotels. Delve into the hutong and you will find a range of options to suit your budget, from hostel-style lodgings for just 70 yuan a night, to high-end indulgence for around 2,000 yuan a night.

Bamboo Garden is a protected example of ancient architecture with a colorful heritage dating to the late Qing Dynasty. Long before its conversion to a hotel in 1981, this courtyard in a quiet lane west of Gulou belonged to Andehai, a powerful imperial eunuch. It was the former residence of Qing Dynasty Minister of Postal Service, Sheng Xuanhuai. And in contemporary times, it was the home of two high-ranking public officials- Republic of China (1911-1949) Minister of Civil Affairs Ma Hansan, and People's Republic of China honorary chairman Dong Biwu.

The hotel is within walking distance to famous sightseeing spots, like the Drum Tower, Houhai Lake, Prince Gong's Palace, and Ditan Park. Commuting is very convenient, with the hotel just next to North Second Ring Road, and near Gulou subway station.

The hotel is built in a classic Chinese courtyard style. Different parts of the hotel are linked by long corridors, and surrounded by bamboo groves, rockeries, and tranquil fountains.

The rooms are decorated with traditional furniture of Ming and Qing dynasties styles, and equipped with modern bathrooms. Facilities include central air conditioning, satellite and closed-circuit TV, personal safety deposit box, refrigerator, hair drier, advanced public security system and fire-extinguisher. A business floor and non-smoking floor are also provided, with WiFi capacity.

The hotel has a magnificently decorated Chinese restaurant, a teahouse and a banquet hall, which can accommodate up to 200 diners. The restaurant provides exquisite Sichuan and Cantonese food. There is also a tea bar. Hotel services include an amenities shop, laundry room, business center, valet, hair salon and Chinese health spa.

A small single bedroom costs 520 yuan a night. Standard rooms with double bed or two single beds cost from 760-880 yuan a night. An ordinary room with guestroom costs 999 yuan a night. A luxurious room with guestroom costs 1,768 yuan.

Temple Side House Hostel was set up by Beijing locals Robby Zhang and his wife, after they returned from studying in Australia in June 2006. It is a courtyard house in a hutong near Xisi, Xicheng District, and is so named because it is a minute's walk from Guangji Buddhist Temple.

The hostel is a standard courtyard house with eight rooms for rent, with a principal room facing south, two small side rooms at both sides of the courtyard, and a gatehouse. The central courtyard is adorned with a grapevine and various other plants. On warm days, it is a pleasant spot to drink tea.

There are double rooms, single rooms, and a dormitory-style room for eight people. Decoration and furnishings are rather simple, but retain the courtyard feeling. Most customers are young foreigners, seeking for easy friendships. There is a shower room, a laundry room, TV, and free WiFi. Toilet is outside the house. The hostel offers tour guidance and suggestion.

The hostel, which is ranked at hostel-world.com, has a new branch near the White Pagoda, just 10 minutes walk away, which is also located within hutong, and has a good view of the pagoda from its rooftop caf.

Single bedrooms cost 70 yuan, and double rooms cost from 200-300 yuan.

Bamboo Garden

24 Xiaoshiqiao Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie, Xicheng District. 5852-0088. http://www.bbgh.com.cn/english/index.html

Temple Side House Hostel

3 Liuhe Hutong Er'tiao, Fuchengmenwai Dajie, Xicheng District, 200 meters away from Xisi crossroad, opposite to the building of National Land and Resources. Shop 2: 8,Anpingxiang, Zhaodengyu Lu, Xicheng District. 6617-2571,6615-7797. www.templeside.com

(China Daily 11/14/2007 page5)