The origin of the noodle is open to debate, with the Italians, Arabs and of course the Chinese all claiming to have invented them. Certainly the oldest known bowl of noodles was discovered in China two years ago at Laijia in Qinghai Province - at 4,000 years old, these millet noodles may have been a little past their prime, but they added sway to the Chinese argument.

Nowadays in China, millet is not commonly used to make noodles. In Northern China, wheat noodles dominate, and in the south, rice noodles are more common, reflecting where the two crops are most widely grown. Width, texture and accompanying ingredients vary wildly but noodles are nearly always served long and uncut to symbolize long life. At a recent birthday meal I detected vague disappointment when a bowl of chang shou mian (longevity noodles) was presented in place of a birthday cake.

La mian (hand-pulled Chinese wheat noodles) seem to be a favorite amongst my Chinese colleagues and I am told those from Gansu Province are particularly good due to lengthy cooking of the broth in which they are served. Mian pian from Xinjiang are large square noodles resembling unfilled ravioli, they usually come covered in a tangy tomato sauce with minced lamb, green peppers and celery - vaguely reminiscent of Mediterranean cuisine to my mind.

Zhajiang mian another tasty northern dish, is a combination of thick wheat noodles, topped with minced pork, spring onions, fermented soybean paste and a little grated cucumber.

Fans of Yunnan food may have discovered guo qiao mi xian - Crossing the Bridge noodles - which is one of those interactive meals like hot pot and Korean barbecue. It comes as a huge bowl of meat broth with a thin layer of oil on top. Besides a plate of rice noodles, accompanying goodies such as thin sliced meat, pickles, coriander and vegetables can be added to the bowl in desired amounts.

From a nutrition perspective, noodles can be a great option provided that you make sensible choices. Fried and deep-fried options are best kept to a minimum. There is also a tendency for noodle dishes to come with a thorough drenching of chili oil, so try asking your waiter to go steady on this.

In terms of Glycaemic Index (GI), a measurement of the rate at which carbohydrates break down into sugar in your blood stream, noodles are usually more favorable compared to rice or mantou (steamed bread). The lower the GI the better, as this stops your blood sugar levels from rising and falling too quickly, and is likely to keep you satisfied until your next meal. The GI varies according to the ingredients of the noodle, the degree to which they are cooked and whether they are dried or fresh.

Particularly good options include buckwheat noodles (qiao mai) traditionally eaten in Sichuan and Shaanxi - there are many restaurants serving such cuisine in Beijing. They can also be found in Chinese supermarkets. Another good healthy option is cellophane or bean thread noodle (fen si). These slippery translucent noodles are usually made from mung or soy bean flour and are often served cold in salads or in soups. Try suan cai fen si - a dish of pickled cabbage and glass noodles from Northeast China.

This nutrition-related column is written by Nina Lenton, a qualified dietitian living in Beijing and working at Bayley and Jackson Medical Center. Contact her at nina.lenton@bjhealthcare.com.

(China Daily 09/27/2007 page14)