Peaches, nectarines, plums, apricots and cherries are all members of the Prunus genus, or stone fruit family, which originates from China. Peaches are especially prized in this country and are traditionally considered the food of immortals.

Nutritionally, this family gains top marks. They all possess high levels of Vitamin C and excellent amounts of soluble fiber, which can help to lower cholesterol. The dark pigmentation of cherries and red plums indicates the presence of anthocyanins, which are potent anti-oxidants. Cherries also contain high levels of melatonin, a chemical that aids sleep and is thought to have immune-boosting properties. Peaches, nectarines and apricots are high in Vitamin A, also boost immunity and are important to maintaining eye health as you age.

Now is the season for stone fruits in Beijing. Misshapen flat peaches, mini-nectarines and pale cherries have been occupying corners of my green grocers for around a month, and now, larger peaches, apricots and juicy plums of various hues have joined them.

The gourmets among you may remonstrate about the atypical forms and dull colors of some local produce, and it is fair to say the flavors sometimes disappoint. The Chinese seem prefer these fruits crunchy, but patience is a virtue and if you place your buys inside a paper bag in the fruit bowl for a few days, they should sweeten and soften.

Another way to improve the flavor is to cook with them. Their tart characteristics mean they are excellent in both savory and sweet dishes. Crunchy nectarines are fantastic sliced and flambed with a drop of Madeira or cooking sherry and then added to a salad of pan-fried duck breast and fresh salad leaves.

Stone fruit sweetened modestly with brown sugar or honey and flavored with ginger and cinnamon work brilliantly when made into a simple fruit crumble. Remove the stones, quarter and sweeten 1kg of your fruit of choice. Place in an oven dish and top with a crumble mixture made with poly or monounsaturated margarine (75g) rubbed into whole meal flour (100g), rolled oats (100g), chopped almonds (100g) and brown sugar (100g) and a little cinnamon. Bake at 200 C for 35-40mins. For a healthier option, simply stew the fruit and serve hot or cold with natural yoghurt.

To avoid the unknown ingredients in readymade Chinese condiments, you could experiment with your own plum sauce and serve this with spring rolls. Combine 4kg of pitted and chopped plums with 1 cup of water, 1 cup of cider vinegar, one and a half cups of minced ginger and a pinch of salt. Simmer for 30mins, and then blend in a food processor. Return to the pan, and add a cup of brown sugar, 2 tsp of cinnamon and bring to the boil. Pour the hot mixture into sterilized jars; use within one month or sterilize for a longer shelf life.

Apricots and cherries are good for jam making, and nothing beats a dollop of plum chutney with a bit of cheese.

This nutrition-related column is written by Nina Lenton, a qualified dietitian living in Beijing and working at Bayley and Jackson Medical Center. Contact her at nina.lenton@bjhealthcare.com.

(China Daily 07/04/2007 page14)