Jazz, a word that means so many different things but in the end comes back to just two simple ideas: freedom and harmony. Due to its complexity, even in its birthplace, the US, jazz is far from the most popular form of music. Indeed, it's more like fine wine, requiring time to bring out its intricate flavors.

The good news is that jazz is alive and well in Beijing. One of the most active bands is the Liu Yuan Jazz Quartet, who play regularly at both East Shore Live Jazz near Houhai and CD Jazz Cafe on the Eastern Third Ring Road. The two venues are owned by Liu and his friends.

Beijing's most celebrated saxophonist, Liu Yuan heads what many argue is China's best jazz group. Liu, who once played alongside Chinese rock guru Cui Jian, is a renowned saxophone player in China, and his "standard jazz" is widely applauded.

On weekend nights his band plays takes on jazz standards, as well as tunes composed by Liu himself. Every show night, both bars are filled with chain-smoking, cappuccino-sipping fans, both Chinese and expats. A hush falls as Liu and his band take to the stage and strike up numbers by artists such as John Coltrane and Brandford Marsalis. Fingers tap gently on table-tops as patrons nod in knowing appreciation.

Chen Nan

East Shore Live Jazz, every Thursday and Sunday, 9:30pm. Second Floor, 2 Qianhai Nanyanlu (just to the west of the post office on Dianmen Waidajie), Xicheng District. 8403-2131.

CD Jazz Cafe, every Friday and Saturday, 9:30pm. 16 Nongzhanguanlu, Dongsanhuan. 6506-8288.

(China Daily 02/07/2007 page13)