Yunnan coffee gaining intl recognition

For more than a decade, German entrepreneur Eric Baden has been working to elevate coffee from Yunnan province into the top tier of the global market, alongside renowned beans from Colombia and Ethiopia.

Baden, who runs Coffee Commune, a Shanghai-based brand, said he was particularly inspired by a recent comment from President Xi Jinping. During a visit to the Old Town of Lijiang in Yunnan on March 19, Xi was offered a cup of coffee and remarked that "Yunnan coffee represents China."

"It's a remarkable statement because coffee has long been considered a Western beverage and culture," Baden said. "But that is no longer true. Young Chinese consumers have embraced coffee just as much as tea — some even prefer it."

Baden, 58, is widely known in China as "Coffee Laolin". Since founding Coffee Commune in 2016, he has worked with Yunnan farmers to develop specialty coffee — a category that was virtually nonexistent in the region before. By introducing advanced cultivation, processing and roasting techniques, he has helped growers transition from bulk production to premium beans.

His efforts have paid off. Coffee Commune won China's first international silver medal for its specialty Yunnan blend several years ago, and more awards have followed since small farms began developing their own high-quality brands.

"I've seen tremendous improvements in Yunnan coffee," Baden said. "The level of professionalism in growing and processing has transformed."

Public recognition of Yunnan coffee is also rising. When Coffee Commune opened its shop in Shanghai's Pudong district six years ago, customers primarily sought imported beans from Colombia or Ethiopia. Now, many specifically request Yunnan varieties.

"Consumers have become much more knowledgeable about Yunnan coffee," Baden said. "They recognize the diversity of flavor profiles and are gaining confidence that it can rival Costa Rican, Colombian, or Kenyan coffee."

Yunnan produces more than 98 percent of China's coffee. Last year, the province exported 32,500 metric tons of coffee — a 358 percent increase from the previous year — reaching 29 countries and regions, including Germany and the United States, according to Yunnan customs.

"Everyone around the world, including in China, thinks of tea as China's beverage," Baden said. "But it's time to acknowledge that coffee also plays a major role here."

He said he has also noticed China's coffee culture expanding beyond younger generations.

"We see a lot of people in their 50s and 60s eager to learn about coffee and how to brew it at home," he said, referring to Coffee Commune's academy in Yunnan's Pu'er region, where courses are offered on coffee production and preparation.