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Discovering Jiangnan - 'South of the River'

By Bruce Connolly | chinadaily.com.cn | Updated: 2021-11-14 15:54
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Cargo vessel on canal near Suzhou 2021 [Photo by Bruce Connolly/chinadaily.com.cn]

Suzhou, a major city whose history closely mirrors Jiangnan's growth, was often regarded as the 'Venice of the Orient' due to its extensive network of canals. However close to that major urban centre, Kunshan (under Suzhou's administration) is internationally renowned today for its significant heritage of water towns or more precisely, 'canal towns'. Much smaller than the regional cities, they are admired for landscapes, arched bridges and a close relationship between man and water. Their intrinsic cultural and historic representations of this part of China, portrayed frequently on traditional paintings, attract many tourists. Yet, despite the obvious commercial growth and input, many have managed to retained much of their original feel and indeed canal-related activities. Walking through some recently I could appreciate a sense of long established harmonic relationships while sensing successful integration combining modern with traditional.

Some towns are particularly attractive and photogenic. One such as Jinxi felt almost enclosed by lakes. An historic consequence of this was the necessity of travel by boat, even between places sometimes only a few metres apart! Close to the entrance of its old town the view simply beautiful across the waters towards historic, arched Lotus Bridge stretching towards Lianchi Temple. Covering much of the bridge runs a long corridor complete with tiled roofs and raked eaves.

Many wooden vessels were gathered close to a walkway I followed, passing a range of small, open-fronted shops selling a range of aquatic products such as freshwater hairy crabs, ducks, fish and much more. Fascinating to spend time simply watching and appreciating everyday scenes.

I was completely taken by the feel, the atmosphere along its narrow lanes where passages connected with steps leading down to boat landing stages that were once important for transport of people and goods. Such was my enthusiasm that I cut short on lunch to explore more, capturing those precious moments with my camera, of exploring a water town.

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