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Scents from the maze

By MARINE ORLOVA | China Daily | Updated: 2017-12-09 18:52
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The skin is another type of enclosure. What do you think of fragrances that leave an intoxicating wake?

The wake always comes from a person one traces back, a bit like a boat's wake. It's a scar, an invisible wound. If so, you can consider fragrance as a plaster, the skin of the air.

Hong Kong means "fragrant harbour". What kind of scent does this place inspire in you? Are there Chinese influences in your fragrance Mandarine Mandarin?

Anytime I travelled and loved a country's atmosphere, I found a reference point. In my case, they're all about femininity, and thus rely on images. Hong Kong was an immediate shock. I love these small lanes with their narrow stalls, this feverishness, this tension-whose scents are reminiscent of poison and seduction.

Sometimes I crossed paths with women dressed in pyjamas, walking on the road with picks in their hands and carrying a burden on their dainty shoulders. One could have thought these light women were made of fish bones-a line articulated by legs. Their faces were absent. They were hidden behind the large, drooping straw hats they wore. Of course, it was a practical outfit, but to me it was the perfect embodiment of what could be described as an ideal by the great fashion designer I sometimes hoped to become. Stamina, fragility and beauty. I met Hong Kong through this vision of woman, through this encounter with myself.

Mandarine Mandarin isn't a fragrance of China, but a fragrance for the one who likes to play with China and the mandarin peel, the one who is fascinated by Mandarin-a hermetic and unknown language to him.

In contrast, Nuit de Cellophane is a fragrance in which Chinese osmanthus-jasmine tinged with mandarin-is very present. The ambition to gather a smell and a country in a single scent was inspired by a vision of femininity, and thus of myself, since it was within me. Femininity is never external to me; it's part of my roots, it shaped me.

You once said, "We only create what we need." What do you need today that you could create tomorrow?

Creation can't be convened…

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