Home sweet nomad

Camping in the Tibetan grasslands has all the creature comforts - and the creatures are invariably yaks

Tucked away in the remote recesses of the Tibetan Plateau in Gansu province, Norden Camp exists in its own vacuum of serenity.

Apart from the occasional cooing of birds and the fluttering of their wings, the only constant sound that permeates this place is that of water sloshing in the little stream that runs through the compound.

From rolling hills to lush grasslands to the surreal canvas of resplendent stars above your head at nightfall, the scenes of what Mother Nature affords at this destination are, without question, spellbinding.

But the beauty of this so-called luxury resort lies not in the fact that it is an astonishingly picturesque getaway location.

Rather, the most poignant aspect of this sanctuary lies in something less visible and more visceral - the stories of the people within, which inherently help spawn new perspectives on life.

Opened in May 2014, Norden is the brainchild of Yidam Kyap, a former Tibetan nomad, and his wife Dechen Yeshi, a Tibetan-American, both of whom were eager to preserve the fast-fading nomadic culture and generate employment opportunities for local nomads. They created a travel destination that provides an authentic yet relatively luxurious travel experience.

The couple have certainly managed to achieve success, having conjured an immaculate blend of tradition and modernity. Just like Tibetan nomads, guests can stay in yak hair tents, the difference being that those in Norden are far more lavish - they come with coal heaters, wooden flooring, soft beds and yak wool blankets.

Alternatively, travelers can stay in cozy cabins that come with their own en suite dry toilets. Other amenities include a sauna, a beautifully constructed area for yoga and meditation, as well as a small boutique.

Guests can choose to do archery, ride horse, visit the nearby town of Labrang and its famous monastery, hike in the nearby hills or have a meal with a nomad family.

Nearly all the employees at Norden come from nomadic families in the area, and they only work from May to mid-October when the camp closes and becomes a winter grazing ground. During this break, some return to help their families with nomadic practices while others are transferred to Norden's cafe in Labrang town or to the Norlha textile workshop.

There seems to be a hint of regret when Yidam says he is still working toward providing year-round employment for all his employees.

"Young Tibetan nomads are kind of in a limbo these days," says Yidam.

"Most of them don't want to lead nomadic lifestyles anymore. These days they just want iPhones, computers and a cushy government job. But it's hard for them to get good jobs because many aren't fluent in Mandarin."

When asked if he would ever turn Norden into more conventional luxury resort complete with all the bells and whistles, such as showers flush toilets for each room, Yidam simply shakes his head.

"The whole point of Norden is about being eco-friendly so that we can preserve the original state and identity of the Tibetan Plateau. We don't want to be digging up too much of the ground just so we can install pipes."

This emphasis on the preservation of Tibetan nomad identity rings true in Norden's kitchen as well. The menu by American chef Andrew Notte plays a huge role in introducing guests to local culture, with the predominant meat featured on your plate provided by the yak.

Notte also utilizes the animal's milk as well as other ingredients typically used by nomads, such as lamb, tsampa, and joma, a protein-rich root.

I was initially apprehensive about eating yak, expecting it to be a tough and gamy on the palate, but what I ate throughout the trip - yak burgers, yak momos (dumplings), yak steaks - was surprisingly tender and delectable. Of course, much of this had to do with Notte's culinary prowess too - the American was formerly a chef at the upscale Aman Resorts in Bhutan.

Notte says it was the camp's passion for preserving local nomadic culture that compelled him to be a part of the project.

"Yidam's vision mirrors my passion and belief in using locally sourced ingredients to showcase local culture," says Notte.

Notte is not the only American employee at the camp. Andrew Taylor and Willard Johnson, who hail from Los Angeles and Seattle respectively, said they were similarly drawn by the camp's efforts in the local community.

Taylor was initially supposed to home-school Norzin, the oldest daughter of Yidam and Dechen, but his background in yoga inadvertently led to him conducting wellness activities for Norden guests. As it turned out, Taylor is capable of whipping up a sumptuous meal too - and he does so at the Norlha guesthouse, located a two-hour drive southeast of Norden - having taken a culinary course on holistic cooking back in the United States.

Johnson, a former basketball player for the Massachusetts Institute of Technology and several clubs in Europe and Latin America, arrived to coach the Tibetan nomads working at Norlha but somehow ended up becoming an athletics coach for guests at Norden.

Taylor and Johnson are paid modest stipends for their efforts at Norden and Norlha. But the duo have had no regrets about their adventure in China so far.

"Back home in the US, I guess there's an innate need to keep up with your peers. Many of my friends from MIT are successful engineers. Some are even rocket scientists. They're all earning good money," says Johnson.

"Still, I'm very happy here. Being here in the remote grasslands and seeing the locals go through what they do really changes your perspective on life. You realize that money isn't all that important."

Norden might be widely dubbed as a luxury "glamping" destination, but there are, perhaps fortunately, no televisions in the rooms. This means there is little to do after sunset when the entire area is blanketed in darkness. Guests either say an early good night or participate in discussions in the cozy bar area.

I chatted with Notte about his culinary style, his favorite foods, the US presidential elections and his adventures on Bhutan's treacherous mountain roads.

I chatted with Yidam about the current predicaments faced by the Tibetan nomads and the feasibility of using solar power instead of coal to heat the rooms.

I chatted with a fellow guest from Shanghai about the rise of American football in our adopted city and how this trip helped us discover that we don't actually need so many modern comforts to live well.

All these nightly conversations at the bar helped me gain new insights into a variety of matters. They also inadvertently taught me that it is probably wise to go easy on the tipple in the Tibetan Plateau.

At 3,200 meters above sea level, the alcohol gets to your head pretty quickly.

Most of all, they taught me that a good vacation shouldn't just leave you with a camera full of images - it should leave you emancipated by new perspectives.

For China Daily

(China Daily Africa Weekly 10/28/2016 page20)