King of Bling

Above: Fennell believes China will produce world-class jewelers. Below: Three of Fennell's design. Photos provided to China Daily

Fusing Western and Asian design, jewelry designer Theo Fennel is looking to expand his business across China

As Chinese culture becomes increasingly popular around the world, an increasing number of top international jewelry brands have begun looking at how to incorporate elements of it into their designs.

London-based jewelry designer Theo Fennell, whose clients include Elton John, the Beckhams and Helen Mirren, is a pioneer of this trend, with many of his latest designs a fusion of Eastern and Western aesthetics, bringing a fresh perspective to the look of jewelry.

Fennell's Chinese Secret Garden ring, one of his most classic designs, which sells for about 40,000 pounds ($61,500; 47,360 euros), is typical of this fusion. Tiny-hinged doors on the ring open to reveal a miniature traditional Chinese garden painted in enamel.

"People, particularly those in the West, are captivated by the unique exotic beauty of these jewelry pieces," Fennell says.

The 62-year-old jeweler, who has made his name producing unique jewelry for high-profile clients, is not content making jewelry with Chinese elements, he also wants his brand to become well known among wealthy Chinese consumers.

His concessions in Harrods and Selfridges were popular with Chinese tourists and "really noticeable", and this gave him the confidence to vie for a place in the Chinese market.

"I think the Chinese market is much more sophisticated than the West understands, and there are many discerning people who want pieces specially designed and made for them," he says. "That is real uniqueness, real luxury. But big jewelry brands have been unable to meet their needs for one-off individual things."

As more Chinese consumers seek individuality, Fennell believes there is a growing opportunity for jewelry artists like himself.

"Jewelry designers with innovative spirit will have real opportunities to make extraordinary things in China," he says.

Born to a British army family in Egypt, Fennell was educated at Eton College before studying at Byam Shaw School of Art in London, now part of Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design. He later trained as a silversmith in Hatton Garden, London's jewelry quarter and center of Britain's diamond trade, before setting up his own jewelry line in 1982.

"I've found my obsession with detail and the ability to interpret grand design on a miniature scale make jewelry the perfect vehicle for my art," he says.

Fennell launched his first shop in Fulham Road, Chelsea, in 1982, and went on to open boutique stores in many of England's most famous department stores, including Harrods, Selfridges and Harvey Nichols. From there he opened further stores around the world and developed Theo Fennell into a global luxury jewelry brand that boasts star-studded fans.

Fennell attributes the appeal of his jewelry to exquisite craftsmanship, but most importantly, to the design's originality and creativity.

"There is a big difference between a jewelry brand and a luxury goods brand," he says. "The big luxury brands make products to be ephemeral and fashionable and their jewelry is often just an expensive accessory. Jewelry should be made to last for generations and should make the wearer feel individual, not just one of a crowd wearing the same thing. So a real jewelry brand should have integrity and be committed to great design, craftsmanship and originality."

Fennell carries a sketch-book with him wherever he travels in case something catches his attention and says many of his designs are inspired by the details of life.

"I take influences from everywhere. I hope my jewelry can be multi-cultural," he says.

Fennell has turned his attention to China in recent years, not only because "Chinese love fine craftsmanship", but also because as the country becomes wealthier, consumers there are beginning to demand jewelry of higher quality and better design, something that provides a business opportunity for him.

However, he says he needs more time and market research to better understand what drives growth and success in different Chinese regions with varied market conditions.

"China is such a huge market, the same as four times Europe, so you have to look at it in a number of ways, and be careful in drawing up business plans."

Now Theo Fennell jewelry has a presence at Lane Crawford in Beijing and Hong Kong and plans to partner with other upmarket department stores to expand its operations in China.

"I have been talking to various Chinese contacts about how best to approach the Chinese market and I want our presence to be introduced with subtlety and respect for a mutual blending of styles and not just to bombard people with advertising," Fennell says.

"We are a brand for the discerning customer and we want Chinese people to fall in love with our work."

In addition to introducing his own jewelry brand to China, Fennell has also been invited by some Chinese jewelry companies to help with design, including TTF in Shenzhen, Guangdong province.

"I am hoping to design a collection for TTF that will blend influences from East and West," he says. "We are in discussions to see how to do this best. They have the ability to make some beautiful jewelry and we need to get the balance right so that it would be something for both of us to be proud of.

"Both England and China have a long tradition of great craftsmanship and style as a starting point," Fennell says.

"There is certainly a much more subtle way for Western and Eastern jewelers to work together than much of what is being done now."

Fennell is also optimistic about the prospects of China's jewelry industry and thinks local designers will be able to compete with international brands.

"In the next 10 years, you could see the emergence of the equivalent of top Western jewelry brands in China," he says.

"Chinese jewelers should have more confidence because many Western brands are making things in China and then they bring them back, so there is no shortage of skills.

"Gucci was a local company that used to make saddles and shoes and now it is an international brand, so before a small business develops into a huge empire, it has to start from somewhere."

Fennell says he is very impressed by China's jewelry industry and believes the country will produce world-class jewelers.

"China is an emerging nation with strong culture, so Chinese designers should not be in blind pursuit of Western design, but should integrate their own cultural aspects into their designs.

"I believe that Chinese traditions of design and craftsmanship mean it is only a matter of confidence and time before China starts to have more world-class designers of its own."

liulu@chinadaily.com.cn

(China Daily European Weekly 06/14/2013 page29)