A chef's natural fusion

Thomas Laberer, executive chef at Kempinski Hotel Beijing, says Chinese people have the same enthusiasm for beer as Germans. [Geng Feifei/China Daily]

Bavaria native perceives similarities in German and Chinese diners

Whether serving a Chinese or German diner, Thomas Laberer, executive chef at Kempinski Hotel Beijing, truly doesn't see any differences. To Laberer, the palette of Chinese people is quite similar to that of Germans. "Chinese customers, like German people, are fond of sausages and pork," the 44-year-old says, "that is why German restaurants are so popular in China."

His perceived similarities have allowed the Bavaria native to easily blend Chinese and Western cuisines to make fusion dishes that are not only appealing to his customers but satisfy the one requirement that both German and Chinese diners call for: hearty portions.

"Chinese people like sharing with each other when eating. It is always a big plate of food in the middle of the table and a group of friends sharing together. So we make our dishes in big portions and Chinese people, with the habit of sharing, like that," he says.

Laberer is behind the food of Paulaner Brauhaus, located in the hotel and which is currently celebrating Oktoberfest with a number of feasts and activities until Oct 23.

The restaurant is known for its heavy plates of meat, cabbages and dumplings, which Laberer says are great for both Germans and Chinese because both like drinking and both realize that heavy foods soak up a lot of alcohol.

"Eighty-five percent of the customers of Paulaner Brauhaus are Chinese. They like our food very much," he says.

Born in Bavaria, Germany, the chef moved to South Africa when he was 21. He became a chef in 1985 after training in his home country and then went on to work as a chef in a number of luxury hotels in Germany, South Africa, Turkey and India.

He first came to China in 1997, choosing Shanghai as his first destination and spending four years there working as a chef in different hotels.

He went back to South Africa in 2001 but several years later grew fond of the idea of returning to Asia.

"I went to Singapore and spent two years there. I also spent two years in India after that. Then I came to Beijing," he says.

He thinks Beijing offers a lot of opportunities for him in his line of work.

"I can find any materials for my cooking here, such as vegetables, and all kinds of meat. They are all of high quality. You do not have to import too many things, unlike 10 years ago," he says.

Laberer says he often strives to be innovative in his dishes. Every other Monday morning, to stock up for the restaurant, he and his team of Chinese chefs visit the local grocery markets in Beijing, which he says affords him ample ingredients and inspiration.

"We go to the local market to see what is available. There are various vegetables, fruits, meat and seafood. We compare the prices and quality. I get lots of fun from this process," he says.

He says he and the Chinese chefs in the capital can learn a lot from each other.

"I always learn something here, no matter one trivial ingredient or more significant managing pattern for cooking," Laberer says.

One key European import that Laberer is currently excited about is wine.

He says many wine companies from France and Italy want to promote their wines in China and that he is often invited to hold dinners in Kempinski Hotel to introduce European wines to Chinese customers.

Laberer, who often gets his creative spark with dishes by drinking wine, says the wine dinners are popular among both Chinese people and foreigners living in Beijing.

Laberer also says he often talks with his Chinese friends and customers about the beer of his hometown, which he believes is suitable when eating sausages.

"When I am back in Germany, I feel like drinking beer. I do not know why. The tasty beer makes me forget about wine," Laberer jokes.

One major difference between the palette of Chinese and Germans is the traditions of beer in each country. For German people, he says, drinking beer has been part of the tradition whereas in China, drinking beer is more of an adopted craving.

"Though the history of beer is not that deep in China as in Germany, the liking is the same. Chinese people have the same enthusiasm for beer," he says.

Oktoberfest is really popular in China. It is not necessary for me to introduce this traditional German festival to Chinese people as most of them know it well," the chef says.